Rest-Up in Kibuye

Hotel Bethanie

Well, just got back from Kibuye. Headed there Tuesday afternoon after a leisurely morning. Went with Sotra, which are more comfortable than Atraco if you get a big bus. Originally, the bus was going at 1:00 but it was a small one and by the time we found it they'd filled our seats! To be fair, they upgraded us to the next big bus without charge, which was really kind and we only had to wait another hour in the café.

It was a long journey - almost three hours along very bendy roads. Not quite as bad as the route to Cyangugu, but close. Worth it, though, as Kibuye is one of the most beautiful places in Rwanda - right on the shore of Lake Kivu. I felt it was about time they experienced public cross-country transport after all this swanning around in a chauffer driven 4x4 ;)

We arrived and booked into the Bethanie, a nice hotel at lake-level with a beautiful restaurant view of the volcanic islands. We had a wonderful evening meal - surprisingly they cater pretty well to vegys - and turned in early. I indulged in a hot shower. I've had four over the two days!

M on the Veranda

That night was a spectacular storm - I think the biggest and loudest I've ever witnessed. Seriously loud thunder, continuous lightning and pelting rain. Due to the altitude, like the Virungas, and to the end of the long dry season. When I woke up, there was water all over my floor, which had seeped up from underneath!

It was a beautiful sunny day, though. We had a leisurely breakfast and sat watching the lake before taking a boat ride with a local guide called Ignatius. We thought it was just a standard ride around the islands, but he docked at one called Napoleon Island and we started trekking up a goat path until we were surrounded by bats! Thousands and thousands of them - and the ground was covered in giant black and orange millipedes. It was seriously like something out of Monkey Island or Pirates of the Caribbean! On the ride back we passed a small bar on another tiny island. We didn't stop, but could have. We also saw an inzoka,a big, black, poisonous water serpent which I thought must be a length of pipe in the water when I first saw it, until it reared up its head! Very privileged.

 

On our return to dry land, we took a slow meander down to a bar I remembered from the time I spent researching there - even bumped into a Deaf guy. We had a wonderful swim and a beer. We were going to eat, but they tried to rip us off a blinder with the prices as we were the only whites there.

Spent the evening at the restaurant again and had a slow morning before taking motos back into town and buying our tickets home. We found a wonderful little bar run by a lovely, friendly lady which was shaded and perfect for waiting the couple of hours for our return ride. From Sotre/Kobil, walk to the main road and turn left - there's another blue petrol station (Services de Kibuye or something) - the bar is directly opposite that.

Made it back and the heavens opened, so took a taxi home and relaxed. Had a lovely last meal at SoleLuna with Giudi and D.