All Better

Went into VSO and had a good whinge to Sue and Mel. Everyone says the same: when you’re ill, things get on top of you that don’t bother you when you’re well.

Had lunch, my favourite meal there: beans and cassava. Really nice. Much better than I ever make.

Still feeling a bit skewiff but just did a mad moto into town to pick up five parcels!

First moto driver was nice enough, tried to chat me up lol Second was a total boy racer – which was fun, clinging onto the back rail with five heavy bags of goodies all at the same time! Good thing he put his foot down though, as my arm was getting tired.

Funny, the same guy at the Post Office that caused me so much grief the first time, has been really nice to me since. Weird. Though they did try to give me somebody else’s mail!

It wasn’t strategically a good move zooming all the way over town on a full, slightly dodgy, tummy. My head is absolutely spinning now, but it was either that or wait until Tuesday, as tomorrow is a national holiday (Heroes Day) and then a full working day on Monday.

I thought I’d treat myself, too. I just paid the motos. I didn’t even argue the price. I felt I deserved a treat. Round trip of 1,900 (£1.90) – probably could have done it for 1,600, but hell, what’s thirty pence?

So, here I am gleefully tearing off the wrapping! Just got Cassie’s Christmas presents :) She sent some fabby chocolate: Black & Gold Butterscotch, which has melted and reformed in an interesting shape, but is no less delicious. Also received sparkly hair bands and stuff for the office :)

Dad sent a consignment of clothes! Including the most beautiful skirt! Might wear it tonight if I go out. Really pretty. Also, a parcel for my birthday which I will save. Funny, I’m sure he didn’t send that very long ago. It's certainly taken a lot less time to get here than Mam’s tea towels... weird.

I have three more parcels to go, one from Dad and two from Mum. I’m debating whether to open them now or save them and open one a day over the weekend? Think I might do that, could be fun to make them last :)

I feel a bit washed out, but happy again. Also happy the guy at the Post Office isn’t ripping me off anymore. All of these came to FRW 600 (60p). It’s the little things.

Bit Better

My Lovely Bed

Nobody panic, I'm still alive!

Woke feeling like death warmed up. Haven't eaten yet, 11:00am now. I think not eating has at least given my tummy a break. It doesn't hurt anymore (sounds like a line from a tragic death scene that, doesn't it? - 'It...it doesn't hurt anymore...'). Going to go into the VSO office at 1pm for lunch. They usually do really good, wholesome food for FRW 700 (70p). I tried some rice and cassava last night but, to be honest, it wasn't that appetising. Think the fennel tea helped, though.

I'm just dead tired, but certainly feeling a lot better. I have thankfully managed to postpone the funding discussion with my colleague until next week. The meeting that was cancelled yesterday has been moved to Monday afternoon.

Still haven't got my MA results. Other than knowing I've passed, I don't know whether it just scraped it or sailed through. It's been over a week now and I'm wondering whether they sent it to the wrong address or if it got lost in the post? The lady in the office hasn't replied to my e-mail. Bit of a poor show on their part really.

Watched The Wind That Shakes the Barley last night. Rather good. I assumed it must be older than it was - only 2006. Didn't think people wrote that genre much anymore. Good acting, good cast, good story. Wasn't exactly what you'd call 'uplifting', but enjoyed it. I find myself loving just about anything that's British at the moment (uh, sorry - British and Irish ;)).

Supposed to be going for Indian tonight. I'm going to see how I feel. If my tummy complains about lunch I won't, but if I'm okay I will. It would do me some good to chill-out with company and have a decent meal. Haven't had Indian for over three months, since I left the UK. Going with Drew and possibly Ally and Martine.

I do miss just being able to call friends up. Within Rwanda, phone credit is so expensive. Conversations last an average of about 10 seconds.

Still, I've pretty much worked out the whole of Les Mis on the tin whistle now, and I am enjoying the film fest. It was a brilliant idea of Sue's to set up a DVD library, and I'm close enough to take full advantage of it.

Paula just sent me a message. She's chilling out, having drinks at a place called Paradise (apparently aptly named) up near Gisenyi in the North West. She wanted to go and see it and now suggests we should have a group excursion.

Blah. Going to go get washed and dressed and poddle into the VSO office. See'f there's anyone there to talk to. Or maybe I'll tackle the week’s worth of washing-up I haven't been bothered to face... yeah, probably that ;)

Nobody panic, all is ooookay.

Feelin' Poo

After a pretty good start today with the money and everything, I ended up having a totally pants day. Sitting here feeling well sorry for myself and homesick.

I must have eaten something earlier that I shouldn’t have. It might have been the meal last night, I feel like I’ve swallowed glass. Sharp pain in my stomach, and sort of just above. Not major, just nagging and causing me to feel seriously tired.

Augustin called a meeting to discuss the IT project at 3:45. He can only do evenings because he works days. He turned up at about 4:30, which wasn’t his fault really, he had trouble with transport, but I sat getting progressively iller whilst one of my colleagues told me all about the project he wants me to find money for. I feel like it’s a bit BDA at the moment: "Oh, I’ve got this project," "oh, I’ve had this idea," "oh, we could do this"... and muggins here has become the Fund-finder General again, which is absolutely nothing to do with the job I came out here to do.

Usually I don’t mind too much, but then we keep calling these late afternoon meetings to discuss very little, nothing that couldn’t be said via e-mail. I think the Chair feels he has to come over to show his commitment, as courtesy or something, which is really nice - better than him not caring - but it means that I have to spend money on a moto to go into the office, to say very little, and sit around waiting for people to turn up.

I don’t mind so much most days, but today I had this pain, and then flushes, and felt tireder and tireder. By the time he actually arrived, I couldn’t get my head around signing. I’m absolutely worn out by all the languages.

The meeting I interpreted the other day was in French, then had to be translated into English, then I had to turn it into AKR and do the process in reverse when Francois or Augustin wanted to contribute. If the meeting had been held in any one of those languages, I reckon it would probably have taken around 45 minutes. As it was, it took over two hours to do that process. The remainder of the time, you just sit there gazing out of the window, waiting for someone to say something you understand. 

It’s worse for the Deaf. I can at least listen to the French and pick little bits out, but they just sit there in silence doodling or looking ready to fall asleep. Tri-lingualism DOESN’T WORK! It barely works in Wales when you have two languages (three including BSL) and the Welsh and English is concurrent because you have headsets to listen on. Here, it certainly doesn’t work. Throw Kinyarwanda into the equation, and everyone’s stuffed. Consigned to an hour and a quarter of meaningless babble in at least two languages. 

Of course, most of the information gets missed. Especially for the Deaf. If business is held in French, then English only gets the short summary. If English, the same for French. It just doesn’t work. No such thing as adequate interpretation here. Most of the interpreters we’ve had have packed-up halfway through the meetings from sheer mental exhaustion or lack of ability. Most people interpret for themselves if they know both French and English. It’s utterly painful.

Anyway, my brain totally melted today in the office. I couldn’t sign, I couldn’t understand sign – so I broke. I had to ask Léon to interpret into English for me as Augustin talks a lot to him in Kinya. I knew how it felt for him - half the meetings he can't understand because he doesn't sign. I just couldn’t cope, and it was making me more and more tired and tearful.

Thankfully, they let me go because I wasn’t well. Once outside, I had to try and get a moto back and every bastard was trying to overcharge me. Usually, if I say 200, they go to 300 and I accept straight away. But they just kept on with 500. I tried to call Martine. I was half tempted, rotten as I felt, to get a bisi over to hers and just curl up on her couch, but she wasn’t in.

Eventually, I got one home for 400. The experience just made me desperately homesick. All I wanted was to get on a fucking mode of public transport that said: ‘Ah, you want to go here? This is how much it will cost,’ and for it to just be the same price in either direction, no argument, no feeling ripped off.

I got in and just had a mope. Still feeling crap. I have some fennel tea someone left in the VSO office, so maybe that’ll calm my stomach. I’m hungry, but it just hurts a bit and I think eating will set it off again. I'll boil some rice later. If it’s still like this tomorrow, I’ll go to the Polyclinic. I’ve started taking my doxy again because it’s an antibiotic and can help with some tummy upsets. I’m supposed to be meeting a colleague again tomorrow to go back over the thing he wants to find funding for. Hopefully I've organised it for VSO though, as it’s closer to both of us and at least it has internet.

It’s really hard, I’m coming to equate the office with mind-numbing boredom. I keep getting asked "Are you coming in tomorrow?" and I keep nodding and smiling and thinking "Oh, God." People are piling on the work – they want funding for this, that, and everything – yet somehow fail to understand why sitting in an office with no telephone, no fax, no internet connection and, most of the time, no power, isn’t something I feel to be hugely beneficial. All I can do is take a good book. I get tons achieved from home with the internet. It's no bother contacting funders and getting information if you have it, but sometimes I need to go into the office, just to be seen to be in. I know a lot of volunteers get the same – either not enough work or too much. I have not enough to do in that office, but too much to do in terms of funding and things that I don’t really think I want to be taking on.

I’m just having a whinge because I feel absolutely shattered and sorry for myself. I miss home a bit when I’m ill. At least you can phone up your mates there, or go buy yourself some comfort food. They don’t even have baked beans here, and I can’t make toast. Here, everything can just be a bit of hard work sometimes. You don’t notice most days, but when you’re ill you really feel it.

Still, I took a couple more DVDs out today, so I might watch one of those to take my mind off things. Feeling right sorry for myself and miss home food a lot. This place sucks for food. I mean, the food is good, but it's always the same food. There are so many things you crave, that you just can't get.

*

Hah. Went to upload this and the site was down. Never too sure if it’s down or the speed of the connection? You frequently have to refresh pages to get them to display. Another thing to add to the list of things I miss: broadband.

And hot water. I haven’t had a shower in almost three months.

Welcome to the developing world.

FRW 702,500

Yay, beginner’s luck! My first funding proposal came back a winner. Just bagged FRW 702,500 (about £700) from VSO to set up a five week IT training course for up to seven of our volunteers, covering basic Windows, Excel and Word Processing. Now just need to get them to actually turn up!

Feeling rather pleased with myself :)

Makes up for going to a meeting today that was cancelled. Supposed to be in the office now but neither Léon nor Francois have replied to my text asking if it’s open. As Léon has my keys, I don’t fancy betting the moto money. Meeting Augustin there later anyway.

Got two parcels from Mum today, too: tea towels, hand cream and herbs (black pepper and mixed), oh and some incense :)

Life is good. Had a bit of a tummy upset, though. Fancied something different and substantial last night, so fried eggs for the first time with some corned beef and cheese. It was yummy, but today not so good. Not ill, but not pucka. My kitchen is also now full of ants. I just don’t have the heart to hurt them.

Getting some positive feedback from my MA participants. Just double checking they’re happy for me to release the interviews alongside the data to the BDA. Had some touching comments. Need to write a couple of articles now for Sign Matters and Deaf Worlds.

Thought I’d had enough of academia, but wondering now about the possibilities of a PhD. Only, not on my wages lol I’m writing around to see if anywhere will take me on or let me get involved in other ways. Perhaps it can build up to something? There's just so much here that would make diamond research material, seems a shame to let it go to waste ;)

Watched Cabaret last night, Liza Minnelli. Cracking film. Enjoyed that. It’s amazing what you’ll watch when you’re forced to ;)

Master and Mistress

Cardiff University

Today, I officially became a 'well deserved' MA ;)

Technically my results came out on the 23rd and my friends had been e-mailing to say they got theirs, but Mum and Dad hadn't got mine. I e-mailed my supervisor, Michelle, who replied:

I can certainly confirm that you have passed your MA - congratulations! Well deserved. I can't give the exact marks on e-mail, hopefully Julia will reply in due course.

:)

So, I am now a Master of Language & Communication Research. Or, to give it its full title, I suppose: 'Deaf People as Victims of Crime in the British Legal System'.

I am just sending off the dissertation and data to all the participants to get their final approval before handing it over to the British Deaf Association to use the research as they see fit, and to sell on to organisations and individuals to support their advocacy work.

As a very fitting tribute, I spent today interpreting for Augustin and Francois at a VSO meeting. So much I could say about that, but a little too tipsy. Just got in. Went for tilapia with Hannah, Martine, Mel and her sister. Was most excellent, and just what was needed after my brain melted out of my nose from the efforts of flapping my hands so hard :op

Most excellent day, most excellent night.

There are some things I absolutely love about this country! Flying through the night on the back of a moto is certainly one of them. Tilapia is another. My job and the people I work with. My friends and the other vols. The country, essentially, rocks - and I am glad to be a part of it. Even when it narks me ;)

Ooooh, oooh, watched Runaway Jury last night - mmmmm, John Cusack, mmmmm Rachel Weisz. Cool film.

Aaaaah, time for bed, still in the glow of success :)

One Love

Me and a colleague fooling about.
Sign = I Love You

Had a brilliant night last night.

Long day yesterday, though. Had both a Disability and Capacity Building meeting at VSO. It’s a once monthly routine for volunteers interested or involved in those sectors. Arrived at The Planet, a bar conveniently next to my house, for melange at 12pm and met Joanne and Jo, then Karen and Antonia joined us. Started the Disability meeting at one o'clock in the VSO office. Went straight from that into Capacity Building, which was very busy this month. Bruce and Marissa, two of the new volunteers, came along. It was a good meeting. Jo gave a workshop on personality types. There are a few vols not having such a brilliant time in their placements. Joanne’s just resigned her post at MINEDUC. She's the second volunteer to leave there in as many years, so a bit of a review required. Makes me realise how lucky I am listening to such stories. I get on so well with my employer and really like my job.

Last meeting finished around five. A few of us headed on to Stella 2 - another bar opposite my house - for a drink and an un-wind. Paula joined me there later and we stayed and chatted to Sue and Eric. Drew (the American from the AIDS Centre) joined us just as we were leaving. We headed over to my house to get ready to go out. There were quite a few vols out in town Friday, but we decided to keep it chilled and quiet. Sank a few waragis at home whilst putting on the slap, then went to SoleLuna for a late dinner. Headed into town about quarter-to eleven by taxi. Went straight to the One Love centre.

I've been wanting to check this place out for ages. Keep passing it on the bisi into town. It’s a Rastafarian club-cum-centre. They run an NGO out of it. It's a bit expensive for drinks but the money is ploughed back into making prosthetic limbs for disabled people. We weren’t disappointed. It’s a wonderful atmosphere set in beautiful grounds. Unbelievably relaxed, with a live band and then cheesy 80s pop lol I adore it simply for the fact that you could dance and people would dance with you, but not on top of you in the way they (men) do in Cadillac. Totally cool establishment.

We drank a bit more waragi, then accompanied Drew back to the Mille Collines were we chilled out in his room and caught the last of the live band in the bar. I was expecting it to be a big dance floor or something, but it’s nothing of the sort. It's really small, with a cramped lounge area and loads of people. The band absolutely rocked, though. Seriously good.

The hotel is a weird place. Not all that amazing. Drew’s room is nice, though. You could look out on the swimming pool. Paula goes there a lot for the pool and the beauty parlour. It’s funny though, there’s absolutely nothing there commemorating what happened. I’ve heard a few times that people here are quite angry about the film and feel it’s not a true portrayal. Again, I’ve heard the comment that money had to change hands before people were saved. Apparently the guy isn’t welcome in the country anymore. This is just what I’ve heard.

Paula and I headed home after that. It was about half-two when we rolled in.

Apparently the new guest bed is very acceptable – firm, but comfortable. Cool.

We were going to go for a swim at Nyarutarama pool this morning but I forgot the way and we ended up catching a bisi into town and going for coffee and cake at Bourbon instead. We bumped into Cathy and another person, whose name I’d heard a few times but never met. They were sharing a place with Epiphanie, one of the new vols in the East. They’re out for Indian tonight. I said I might join them if I’m not asleep.

It was umuganda today. The last Saturday of the month equals National Community Service Day. Kigali was like a ghost town, seriously deserted and nothing open. Everything kicked off again between 11:00-1:00. Major inconvenience for vols coming into town for the weekend trying to get stuff done.

I headed home after Bourbon, grateful to chill out for the afternoon. Haven’t had a night out in some time. Rather tired, but happy.

Another reason to be happy would be a certain gentleman who finally replied to my e-mail the other day. He’d been in the North for a while and away from internet. We exchanged a couple of rather formal business-oriented e-mails and I passed on my new number. Eventually, he asked whether he could use it just to call me and say ‘hello’, or text. Again, very cool approach – very unusual for a guy here to ask permission or think that you’d give him your number for any other reason, hence you rarely ever give it out. Feeling kind of groovy. He’s going back to Butare at the end of February. Hopefully I can coincide my visit there with his. Chance to catch-up on work and each other.

New Bed

New Spare Bed

:)))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))

Finally got the new bed! Fabian collected it this afternoon and came and put it together. Then he climbed on a chair, on top of the bed frame, to reach the high thatched ceiling and put up the mozy net. I held it steady. Wish I had a photo, it was quite a balancing act.

He’s earned a reprieve. I’m not sure why but that incident that really annoyed me, where we agreed 500 for the lawn and he charged me 5,000, just reversed itself – we agreed 5,000 for the bed and he charged me 500! Oddly, just after putting the spanner down next to my 'afrialtar'. I’m wondering if it’s coincidental or not ;)

Either way, don’t care. I paid him the agreed price anyway as he earned it this time. I now have a new guest bed! It’s solid as a rock. Not sure how comfy it’s actually going to be. Paula’s coming tomorrow so she can try it out and let me know. But, finally, the bed saga is resolved.

It’s been quite a productive week, actually. Got new bed. Drew/Andrew from the AIDS Centre dropped me a line. He got my note at the Mille Collines and I’ve invited him out with me and Paula on Friday. Tuesday was one of my resource days. I spent it doing lots of stuff from home: wrote two funding applications, one for a Deaf genocide survivor’s project and the other for a Deaf community theatre project. Sent the drafts to Augustin for comment.

Also wrote an application to VSO, to fund an IT training project to get some of our volunteers more involved in the office, bit of capacity building. They’ve agreed, in theory, to fund it, but the room hire’s come to more than I was expecting. Just trying to balance numbers at present – going a bit cross-eyed with all these zeros. There's a bit left in the VSO budget at present, so hopefully they’ll still go with it. Been working on a few other bits and pieces on the side, like the website, which a friend set up. Getting information translated into French and Kinya at the moment, not much up yet.

Attended a partnership meeting yesterday with Francois and Betty. It was a full day. First monthly meeting for partners to share information about their projects and help collaborate on various issues. It was a good day, and I got fed. We've also got Sue Enfield, a consultant from DFID, in at the moment conducting a mid-term review on the Disability Programme. Lots going on.

Afrialtar

MTN, Customer What?

Union Trade Centre

Ugh.

Bit of a bum couple of days. Tired. Went into town on Saturday with Marissa, one of the new vols. Went to Bourbon and had a bite to eat. Bumped into a Canadian called Francois, who is working out here but on his way home. That was nice. Had a good chat. I dropped past the Mille Collines after and left a message for Andrew. Well, the only American Andrew they could find on record so see how that goes.

Got home to find a note from Sue. An invite to dinner, but I couldn't call her back because of the phone situation and being a bit daft and not realising there's a pay phone outside :op That was a shame.

Lounged and typed a lot Sunday.

Went to work today and did a lot of sitting around doing very little, watching others use the computer and just sort of sitting really, longing for an internet connection and a purpose.

In the afternoon I decided to go and lose the will to live at MTN. Their customer service is... well, what customer service? I stood in a stagnant queue for 45 minutes with people pushing in left, right and centre - it was like a British NTN 'helpline' only in the flesh. I believe I uttered out loud: "I'm going to grow old and die here," at one point.

Did get a free USB connector from a nice chap in the business section, though. So I can plug in the modem and my flash drive at the same time - the ports are a bit close together and the modem is wide. Also received two parcels from home, one from Aunty Patsy and the other from Aunty Jean - loads of chocolate.

But, here's the thing. I went to Bourbon after, thinking I deserved a treat. I ordered their chocolate cake and a coffee. The cake was huge! Absolutely stinkingly good cake! Only, halfway in, I had to stop. I felt sick as a parrot!

I reckon I've got a reduced tolerance for chocolate, having not had it in so long! I couldn't believe it. How cruel!

In all honesty, I think I'm suffering mild malnutrition or something. Haven't really eaten much fruit or veg in quite some time. Live off samosas and chapatis - high carb, little nutrients. Just not eating good stuff, or often, at the moment. Took a moto back and went straight to Ndoli's, bought myself three oranges, a bag of red apples, and a mango. Going to eat them all, now, with a vitamin tablet. See'f I feel any better. Had a crap night's sleep and woke feeling a bit squiffy, so think my diet needs addressing pronto. I found myself hankering for home grub *sigh*

Anyway. Did get a new phone today. Got a new number. You can keep your old one, but you have to fill out a form and get your ID photocopied and... well, I just can't be arsed. The thought of going back to MTN fills me with dread. I just don't think I'm strong enough to do it.

So, yeah. Will pass out the new number. Nokia 1110 - blue, quite cute actually. I prefer it to the Vodafone one I had. At least this one understands the concept of grammar.

Been watching some DVDs from the library the past couple of days. Resorted to the first ever episode of Bread. 'Gotta get up, gotta get out, grab the world by the throat and shout...' - blast from the past or what! Plus a PD James mystery. Love this old-time Brit flick stuff. Defence of the Realm, that was the other one - now that was a movie on a budget ;)

Nostalgia. Ain't it great.

Burundi No-Go

Heh, yeah, I guess Burundi is a definiate no right now ;)

LINK

Happy New Year.

Hold the Phone (and the Whole Wedding Thing)

Rwandan Cows

Warra day :op

First off IMPORTANT ANNOUNCEMENT! - my phone's been swiped, so you can't phone/text me anymore. When I get a new one, I'll let poeple know.

There's a slim chance I might get it back (got a bunch of big beautiful boys on the case) but I won't hold my breath. It was taken by one of the members. He sat there playing with it and taking pictures. I didn't think much of it as people are always playing with each other's phones and there's not a lot to do in the office. Besides, he was sitting right next to me!

Next thing, I realise he's walked off with it!

I have to say, I was astonished. Not least because I know the guy, and will undoubtedly see him again! - duuuh.... Not the most intelligent theft in the world. My colleagues, bless 'em, have been so lovely about it. I'm sure he's in for a rough time when they catch up with him. Augustin says it's a common problem. He's on his 5th phone, Bob's on his 3rd! I'm certainly not the first volunteer either, Joe had his lifted at a funeral!

Anyhoooo. I was more amused by it than upset. Just vaguely annoyed because Andrew might try and get in touch about going for drinks. I think I'll go into town tomorrow and look at buying another one, then I can swing past the Mille Collines and leave him a note at reception. There can't be too many American Andrews working for the AIDS Centre there.

I had a most entertaining afternoon, though. Had to do a mad break for Peterson's shop about 2pm as I hadn't eaten anything, even breakfast, and was about to pass out. There were no samosas, but this sort of greasy pancake bread Léon first introduced me to. Sounds and looks pretty unappetising. Actually, it's delicious when you're hungry, and dead filling. I scoffed two of them and a cake with a bottle of apple juice. The world came back into focus :op 

I felt a bit stupid, though. I told Peterson I was sooo hungry, and he laughed and kept hold of my hand (you get this with greetings sometimes - people can shake your hand and hold it for an entire conversation) pretty much meaning I didn't know the meaning of hungry. I’d deliberately not used the term 'starving' - but at that moment in time, I was hungry.

All of this sounds like it's panning out to be a bit of a bum day, but it wasn't. I've had a great day.

I had my second (at least) marriage proposal today. This time from a colleague, who is lovely, and undoubtedly meant it. As much as he's a lovely fella, and I like hanging out with him, I've painstakingly explained that the cultural differences between here and Britain wouldn't bode well for our relationship. Also, that I don't never intend having a ring on my finger this side of the apocalypse. For the time being, anyhoo ;) Oh, and another colleague told everyone today that I was marrying him, and that we're just taking it slowly... I've never been so popular!

I like discussing cultural differences regarding marriage here. So do they. It's a matter of great hilarity. For instance, here, I'm worth two cows and some cash in dowry. We had a discussion about what would happen if a Rwandese man married a muzungu woman in England. Would the cultural customs remain? Would he have to give her parents two cows? I asked how they'd get them on the plane? Then said my parents' garden ain't big enough for a cow, and it probably wouldn't please them very much. This raised a laugh. It's quite amazing to people here that we don't have dowries.

I was talking to Paula and Martine the other night about wedding traditions. Alexis was showing me photos of his wedding a while back and explaining the customs. Weddings used to last a week or so but, due to money, they tend to be one or two days now. His was two days. On the second day they have the 'unveiling' ceremony. This is where all the guests gather round. The bride and groom, having consummated the marriage, enter the room. The bride is wearing a veil because she's ashamed/embarrassed at having relations with her husband. Her mother has to come forward to lift the veil and remove the shame.

Men here are more bum-oriented than boob-oriented. I suppose, after nine children, it's the less saggy of the two? Big bums are much prized. Being called 'fat' and told you've gained weight is a compliment. Another interesting custom, not for the faint hearted, is one that another volunteer's Rwandese boyfriend explained one drunken night. An admired trait is apparently large... uh.... flaps. On women. Girls are taught from a young age to pinch them out so that they get larger. Apparently this is why you sometimes see women at the swimming pool wearing shorts in the water.

Finally, and perhaps the most disturbing, is one where women drink a herbal drink to dry them out below, so that sex is painful and they don't enjoy it. I kind of thought this would be a little unpleasant for both concerned, but, uh..? It's likely a Christian thing you'd have thought, sounded kind of Muslim too, in the extremist 'women must be punished' mindframe. Not sure where it originates from. This, i'd assume, is a minority custom rather than a national one?

Anyway, totally digressing from the point here...

I also met the Chair of the Burundian Association of the Deaf today, who's a top bloke indeed. I've been invited down to visit them and would love to go, but I'm not allowed. It's VSO policy that Burundi and the Congo are out of bounds, repatriateable offence.

Burundi is in an even worse state than us for sign language and Deaf rights. They're looking to us like we're looking to Uganda. I'd be fascinated to go see. Will talk to VSO and see how definite the 'no' is. I heard before that you could fly into the capital and back, but dunno. There was a sad case a few years back where a VSO ignored the warning and took a bus there with her Burundian fiancé to visit his family. The bus was hijacked en route by Hutu militia and everyone on board was shot. Charlotte Wilson was her name.

If a no is a no it's a no.

But, naturally, the head of a visiting Association can't go anywhere without his interpreter ;) So, yeah, I had a great day. Still getting used to pronouncing his name. Names here are many and varied, and often hard to pronounce! We kind of loitered and chatted outside towards the end of the day, just daft stuff, like the two things I know how to say in French are 'where is the tourist information office' and that line from Lady Marmalade - ahem. That was funny. He suggested (tongue-in-cheek) I needed to go to Uganda and get some culture. It's a bit of a joke about the Ugandans amongst muzungus (and many Africans too) because it's custom there that women are subservient to men. Any time a woman meets a man, asks something, or receives something, she has to kneel before him. I told him my mother would never allow me.

He's got a cool sense of humour. If I can't visit Burundi, we're talking about going on a group trip up to Uganda to nose around their school for interpreters. He really wants to study there. I'm kind of curious myself. It would be amazing to set up a training scheme with them, with a view to founding our own school of interpreting here.

So, despite the phone, it's been a fun day. Nice when the office is full of life. Love my colleagues, they're pretty cool. I know I'm more settled in myself. Francois said I was grumpy last year, but this year I'm all smiles - he's right. I was too fixed on what I thought the job was about before, and trying to achieve things and find my place in the organisation. Now I'm chilled, relaxed, and so laid-back I'm about to become horizontal. It's a much nicer pace of life and things are drifting forward as they should.

A Question of Interpretation

Bourbon

Had another productive day today. Went to VSO to download a 71 page document that Augustin wanted me and Léon to read for a meeting tomorrow morning. Rather a lot to get through in such a short space, but some interesting information on HIV and AIDS. Nothing Deaf-specific, though.

I took it, via flash disk, into the office and also took a look at the American Embassy Self-Help funding form with Francois. They fund between 3-5mil FRW (around £3-5,000) on sustainable ‘community projects’ that aren’t religious, recreational, or cultural, and don’t require ‘high-tec’ equipment like a computer.

So, not much really. We’ve been racking our brains all day and have almost come up with a project to do with printing information leaflets... possibly. I’m going to work on it tomorrow from home.

Francois said there’s another funding form for more money on the theme of ‘Democracy & Human Rights.’ For want of anything better to do, I decided to head into town and go back to the American Embassy for it. I thought, whilst I was there, I’d swing past the Centre for AIDS Prevention to ask whether they’d be willing to fund the AKR interpreter for the meeting tomorrow, so that Deaf colleagues can participate.

I went to the Centre first as it’s en route to the American Embassy. I managed to find the offices easy enough, but I wasn’t sure what to do when I got there. Thankfully, just as I was arriving, a lovely American guy called Andrew stepped into the corridor. He’s working there on a Monitoring and Evaluation project, and was really helpful.

Unfortunately, the reply was that we weren’t needed as an organisation tomorrow. This is because Bernard, head of the handicap umbrella organisation, is representing disability and, besides, it’s too late to put interpreting in the budget.

Okay, so why bother e-mailing us an invite then? 

Stank of discriminatory exclusion on the grounds of language, that. But, there we are then. To be honest, having glanced at the report, there was nothing to be added by us anyway. It was just a bit of a shame, really. Worse than that, I was told that only the heads of organisation/key people had been invited, so why did we need an interpreter? Meaning, obviously, Deaf people can’t hold key positions in their organisation?

I didn’t say a word. I just smiled politely and left. It was so good to have Andrew there, though. He’d worked for Peace Corps (sort of American VSO) before and understood the problems. He also translated for me into French, which was a life saver. As he was headed up to the same end of town, he walked me to the Embassy. We had a good chat on the way. He’s currently stop-gapping at the Mille Collines and there’s live music there twice a week. I’m going to meet up with him for a drink and introduce him to the other vols around town. He’s a bit isolated, not being with an organisation. Funny how you meet people.

Didn’t have much better luck at the Embassy. They couldn’t find the form, so they took my e-mail address and promised to send it over (which they have!). However, I really impressed the guards who gave me huge warm smiles when I thanked them in Kinya and told them (also in Kinya) that I'd like to learn it - which I've been repeating for the past two months now, but it still seems to work ;)

I’d achieved a lot in all, and was dead hungry by that point. I've been living off samosas, bananas and peanuts the past couple of days. I treated myself at Bourbon to a chicken and avocado panini and an apple juice. I felt disgustingly bad about myself, surrounded by all those muzungus and paying £3.30 for a meal, twice the price of a pub lunch where I live! Sounds ridiculous to you maybe, but it honestly took the enjoyment out of it all. I just don’t know anywhere else that I can get a sandwich. I felt full to bursting by the time I left – haven’t had a meal like that in a while.

I sloped off guiltily back to the office. Andrew agreed that one of the biggest gripes is the lack of street food here. You can't just pick up a snack. It makes life tough, the whole not eating business, but I’m just thankful I have the money to go and eat when the opportunity presents itself.

I took a bisi back to the office. No sooner had I stepped off when Gheert tooted me from across the road. He was on his way to the airport with a colleague to pick up some laptops that had been donated. They came up and saw my office briefly :) Also introduced them to Peterson, the guy downstairs in the shop who always makes me order in Kinya ;)

In the office, Parfait, Francois and Léon were joined by another guy, a very handsome gentleman called Chabel, who is an interpreter from Burundi. We had a really good chat about the state of sign languages and everything. It was brilliant. His English is also very good. Unfortunately, he’s going back to Burundi tomorrow, but he wants to go and have a look around Butare Deaf School, so I’ve taken his e-mail address to put him in contact with Antonia. Funny that, I really do need to go visit myself at some point ;)

Ooops, professionalism!

Anyhoo. All’s good here at the moment. Water’s running fine. Not much to report. Things are all falling into a nice mundane routine really.

Moto-Mania

MINEDUC

Zoooooooooooooooooooooooooom

I'm all motoed out today :op

It's one of the things everyone says they miss when they go back to the UK. Motos really are the best way to travel!

Went into town by bisi today to meet Léon, who showed me where the American Embassy was before heading off to a meeting. I went in and stared down the pictures of Bush, Chainy and Rice by the desk. Asked for a copy of their project funding form to take away.

I was going to get a moto back to the office when I realised I hadn’t brought my keys. So, instead, I got one all the way home.

Then I received a text saying we were having a meeting at MINEDUC (Ministry of Education) at 2pm. I hung around at home looking for my keys and doing general 'stuff', then took a moto, saying "MINEDUC". He didn't take me to MINEDUC, only I didn't know this, never having been there before. He took me to a group of buildings which are part of MINEDUC, but not the Ministry itself - right on the other side of town. 

So, after a very confusing phone conversation about 'where are you?' with Betty, I hopped another moto to the actual Ministry. I arrived about half an hour late, but no worries. In Rwandan time it hadn't even begun. A total of about £1.80 spent on motos today - a lot of money! But so much fun! Little children shouting 'muzunguuuuuuuuuuuuu' as you pass :op

The meeting was interesting. It was me, Betty (our terp), Francois (ex-Director), Brandine (Secretary), Bob (Mental Health) and Parfait (our Youth Representative, who's been away in Uganda since I arrived - he's lurvly). We were there to state the case for Deaf Education. It was really spirited. The guy at the Ministry brought out an ancient old reel-to-reel recorder with a microphone, and asked us all to state our names! lol 

He gave it to Betty in the end, who voiced the meeting for everyone. I had to state my name, where I was from, and my job. I got admiration and a round of applause from my colleagues for signing AKR and being voiced for, rather than speaking. It made more sense anyway because the meeting was in Kinyarwanda, which I don't speak well enough, but it was appreciated as a sign of support :)

It was a stirring speech by those present, interrupted only when the reel-to-reel ran out and had to be changed.

We all headed home after. Most people going past Kimironko, which is my stop. I had a good chat to Parfait. He's originally from Uganda. His dad's Ugandan and his mother's Rwandese. After the trouble he decided, like another Deaf person I've met from the Congo, that he wanted to come here and help. He goes back to Uganda now and then. He signs highly about the state of Deaf inclusion and Sign Language there. I'd like to go and take a look at their interpreting school some day. We're talking about a trip when my passport comes back from immigration.

In With the New

Fish Brochette

Had a brilliant day yesterday.

Got up early and went into town to meet Martine and Cathryn (an Irish volunteer who's been here a year now). Five new volunteers arrived on 8th January and are undergoing ICT1 at Amani guest house.

We met them at the Chinese Shop, which is the closest thing to a department store, and helped them buy lots of stuff for their new homes. The look of flustered confusion brought back a wash of nostalgia ;)

Bruce, my friend from Harborne, was amongst them.

We shopped for a couple of hours, then got a lift back to Amani for free food. They do great melange, again it brought back memories. Makes me realise how settled I am here now. I had a good chat to the new ones: Tiga-Rose, Marisa, Soraya, Bruce & Epiphanie (who is half-Rwandese). They're doing well, feeling a little overwhelmed but fine.

Cathryn, Martine and myself sat around chatting for ages afterwards, which was lovely. I managed to buy some bedding for my new bed, and bought a really cool bit of foam on the end of a stick which will make washing my floors a breeze! (It's the little things.)

After that, I walked with Martine to the bus stop, then up the hill to my house, and chilled out for the afternoon. Paula was down from Gahini visiting Martine, so I took a couple of bisis across town to Nyamirambo, which is absolutely pumping at night time! Very cool place, must go exploring.

We went to Panorama, a bar up from Martine's house that does amazing fish brochettes. There's a gorgeous view of Kigali, bit like at SoleLuna.

It was a most excellent night. We sat and chatted for ages, then I got a moto all the way back across town, which was seriously exhilarating - about 25 minutes of Easy Rider ;)

Got home to find a massive cockroach in my bathroom. I jumped, he jumped - and fell into my toilet! Shit, thought I, I really need to pee bad! There was no water in the cistern, so I couldn't flush it out. Then it crawled up under the rim. I tried DEETing it and throwing water up there, but no joy. There was no way I was going to sit on the toilet with that thing in there, so I took an empty water bottle from the kitchen, used a knife to make a sort of P-Mate, and went like a bloke. Did the job. No idea what happened to the cockroach, but I'm back to sitting on the loo now - thankfully. The bottle design is a good one - would come in handy for squat-holes. Might make some and leave them on the shelf at VSO.

[NB 2013: This is the final special post, in which I really met Cathryn for the first time. Although, she claims she remembers seeing me at my in-country training. Apparently I was walking round in circles like a nutter and she thought to herself 'that one's okay.' Which gives you an insight into the company I keep. Martine, Cathryn and Jo are the people I've remained closest to since returning. They are three of the strongest, most supportive and generous women I've ever met. Rwanda was worth every second to come away with friendships like that.]