Pottering

Cup-cup
Rwandan Lawnmower

Just been pottering the past few days and lying in bed dozing. Thoroughly loving the time off.

Been for a couple of meals with Philip and his wife Fiona, who arrived a few days ago. Had brochettes with Craig and went to SoleLuna for pizza. That was a magical night as there was dry lightning in the distance over Kigali - really eerie and beautiful.

So, been eating out quite a bit this week.

Almost finished Tipping the Velvet, which I found in the VSO library. Really good read.

Internet’s been a bit temperamental. I regularly have to reinstall the software to get it to work but, importantly, it does work for the most part. Not worth going and frustrating myself with MTN over it just yet.

Still having guard issues. We agreed five or six hundred francs for cutting my lawn the other day. I went to pay him and he just demanded five thousand! That's almost a week's wages. Cheeky numpty. He said it was 'a very difficult lawn' - is he kidding!? It's tiny. Anyway, I paid him and explained that from now on he turns up, guards the house, and that's it - that's all I'm paying him to do. He said "Oh, I’ll just help you do-," "No, thank you Fabian, I can't afford your help. You're too expensive." So, next time the lawn needs cutting I'm going to have to try and do it myself with the cup-cup (or wharrever it's called) - long bent piece of metal you swing like a golf club.

Still not sure what's happening for New Year yet, but I think Paula's coming to Kigali tomorrow so we'll work it out then.

Boxing Day

Nyarutarama Pool

 

Lovely lazy Boxing Day. Philip called around one o'clock and we took a leisurely half-hour stroll in glorious sunshine down to the local Tennis Club at Nyarutarama.

They have a swimming pool there and you pay FRW 2,000 for a big fluffy towel and a swim. It's mainly the upper echelons of Rwandan society at the swimming pool. Firstly, because they can afford 2,000 for a swim, and, secondly, because they can swim. In Rwanda, a land-locked country, many people can't.

It's a nice atmosphere at the club and we had a lovely time in the pool and sun bathing on the grass. There were only muzungus there today. They have big cold water showers in the changing rooms, and I washed my hair. I changed in a cubical which had clear glass windows looking out across the pool - hmmm, not terribly convenient (well, maybe convenient for the blokes outside!) :op

Then we had lunch at the bar on a nice sunny terrace. Philip had spaghetti bolognese and I had a vegy burger with cheese and chips.

We took a stroll back and passed a woman on a beautiful horse! Muzungu, of course. I stopped to ask her if there was a public stable nearby. She laughed and explained that she was the only horsewoman in the whole of Rwanda. We passed her house a little further up. I assume it was her house as it had a high gate with a horse looking over it. What a shame - bit of a waste bringing my chaps then :(

But it was a wonderful way to recover from the excesses of Christmas. I spent the evening lounging around and early to bed.

Christmas Day

My Christmas Present

 

I am writing about the most decadent night of my life!

Christmas eve was a quiet one. I did go into town to try and get my internet connection sorted. There were queues a mile long for the counter at MTN, but no one appeared to be working in the business section, so I couldn’t get anything done. I went shopping at the craft market over the road instead, for my Secret Santa present, and a few treats for myself.

The rest I spent at home just pottering. I made a platter of food for the guard, with a little cup of Bailey’s which was a treat bought with Christmas money :)  Under the cup I slipped FRW 500 for cutting the lawn, and an additional $20 (about FRW 10,000) bonus for the time of year.

Christmas Day, I woke at seven, had a wash, and waited for Philip to call at half-nine. We took a bisi towards Nyabugogo and got off by the Embassy and Novotel. Then we walked for a while, trying to find Joanne & Morley’s house. We got hideously lost and ended up walking around the suburbs for a while until Morley came to find us. Actually, Morley and Jane. We’d asked a local guy if he knew where the muzungus lived and he ran and told the next muzungu he found - who happened to be Jane - that we were wandering around lost :op

We got there eventually though, and breakfast was wonderful. There were loads of volunteers there and some of their families who were out visiting for Christmas: Joe and his almost identical twin brother, and his sister, Mel and her friend from home, Craig, Hannah G and her boyfriend from up North, Kigali Hannah with her sister, Mum and Dad, Joanna and Morley of course, me and Philip, Samira and Jane (think that’s everybody!).

There were sweet pastries, chocolate logs and, best of all, crepes with fresh fruit, yoghurt and tons of maple syrup! Loads of it. Absolutely amazing. Then we all sat around for Secret Santa, which was lovely. I received a little wooden picture made from banana leaf from Samira - most of us revealed our identities at the end - and I gave a little shell necklace and keyring to Kigali Hannah. We keep getting workbooks full of squared paper from VSO and conferences, so I’d made the wrapping paper from that, by colouring in the squares in a pretty pattern.

We hung around and chatted until about half-one, then Philip and I made our way (rather more directly) home via a taxi. We stopped off over the road for a beer and a brochette as we needed something a little bit savoury after all that sweet stuff. Then he came back over to mine to make a start on the bottle of Bailey’s. Mum called to say 'Happy Christmas,' on their way to the pub :) 

Philip left about five to go and get tidied up. I did likewise. Then he picked me up again at six and we started the twenty-minute walk over to Mel & Craig’s, stopping for another beer on the way.

When we got to their house, it was something magical. It’s a gorgeous location anyway, with steps leading down through the garden to the house, but it was made all the more magical by the candlelight glinting off tinsel and decorations.

Alcohol was plentiful: red wine, gin and tonic, beer, the rest of the Bailey's we took. I stuck to red wine the entire night. We attempted a bottle of Rwandan wine - hmmm - then used it for cooking :op

Craig was the Master Chef, as he is utterly amazing in the kitchen. The house is so big that seven other volunteers and their friends had been stopping over to help out. They’d been preparing for two days!

Most of the people who came to breakfast also came to the meal. That's around eighteen people in all!

It began with bread and pâté: fish, guacamole, houmous and vegetable. All made from local ingredients and all tasting amazing!

When the bread and Pringles had been significantly chomped, we moved on to vegetable soup, again made fresh from local ingredients.

The main course was a melange of so many wonderful, wonderful things: a chicken (which Samira had slaughtered the other day!), stuffing, mashed potatoes, cabbage, green beans, lamb chops in tomato and olive sauce, and, rarest of all, a lettuce salad with green pepper and flowers from the garden! Lettuce salad here is unseen, and usually you have to avoid salads when dining because of the water used. Everything except the stuffing was local. The stuffing came from England in a packet :op 

Words cannot express how wonderful a meal this was!

To round-off, it was pudding time! We were all bursting at the seams but somehow managed to make just enough room to go for it. There were bananas and pineapple with chocolate sauce, a banoffee pie (without the offee) coated in chocolate and coconut, a giant mince pie, and a vat of chocolate sauce for dipping. It was truly out of this world.

There was a nice long stretch between courses, to let the digestion process kick in. We’d started eating around eight and finished around eleven. Then some went their way, and those of us who stayed had a sing-song. Philip had prepared the words to some old classics like Daddy Wouldn’t Buy Me a Bo-wow, Any Old Iron, Oh I Do Like To Be Beside The Seaside, My Old Man and so forth. It was hilarious, and everyone joined in with gusto. At the end, Jane sang a couple of hymns: Hark The Herald and Once In Royal David’s City. She has a beautiful voice. It was really touching.

Eventually, Philip and I wandered home at about midnight. I flopped into my bed with a huge, contented belly. It was the best Christmas dinner I think I’ve ever had in my life – all the more special when you think how much effort had gone into preparing it.

I woke today feeling amazingly perky considering how much I drank last night, but it was over a long period, and alongside a lot of food. Philip is calling in around one o’clock and we’re planning a very leisurely Boxing Day swim at the Tennis Club, which I haven’t been to before. Then a spot of late lunch somewhere. 

Going to miss him when he leaves in a couple of weeks. It’s been nice to have someone to wander about with. It also struck me last night that, although there’s a couple of two-year volunteers here from last year, I’m the only one this year. So, this time next year I may be the only one of the group left. Everyone else will have gone home. Strange thought, but hey-ho.

Water Cuts

Okay, so I’m a bit pissed off. Having a slightly grouchy day. I’ve got a slight stomach upset, nothing bad – probably a hang-over from the alcohol the other night. But the water has been off now for well over 24 hours - apparently sometimes it can disappear for up to three days - and it’s pissing me off because I can’t flush the loo and I have to ration the amount I drink. So, fewer cups of tea/coffee/juice. 

I did a stupid thing yesterday. I planted more vegetables, and watered them with one of my storage buckets. The other day the water was back on within 24 hours. I assumed (which makes an ass out of U and of me *sigh*) that this would be similar. So, now I have happy vegetables but only enough water left to have a wash in, which I won’t do until I have to go out somewhere, or unless the water comes back on. I’m fed up with it. Capital city of Rwanda and you can’t even get running water half the days in the week. *grumble, grumble, bitch, complain*

My internet has packed up. I think I’m going to have to go into town and try and get it fixed tomorrow. It's been off for two days now. I have done a lot of reading and writing in the meantime, though. Finished Pillars of the Earth, which was utterly outstanding. Now reading Tipping the Velvet. I loved the serialisation and always wanted to read the book. I found it in the VSO library. Still got a Gabriel Byrne film to watch (Defence of the Realm) so shouldn’t complain too much. I did just fine before internet but, having had it, it’s hard to lose it. It’s just a pain having to go all the way into town to sort it out. There’s an MTN branch round the corner, but they wouldn’t have a clue what to do with it.

To top it all off, I have a cockroach infestation. Last week I threw one out, then the other night I found another one! I chased it around the bathroom for a bit until it hid behind the loo. Last night I had this peculiar feeling I was being watched as I brushed my teeth. There were two of the bastards on my wall, and one in the corridor! We’re not just talking little dudes here, we’re talking massive red feckers. 

I have a plastic pint glass that I used to throw the first one out, and they barely fit in the circumference. What’s worse is that they move like lightning. They seem to have a sixth sense of what you’re about to do, so they’re almost impossible to catch. I really don’t think I can kill something – I have trouble swatting mosquitoes. More often than not I’ll just leave them alone, so long as they’re not biting me. But if I can’t catch these guys, I don’t see anything else for it than to spray. They are HUGE. About the length of my middle finger and twice the thickness of my thumb. If they were slow and didn’t protest at being thrown out, I wouldn’t mind so much, but my bathroom is small and there ain’t enough room for three of us.

So, yeah. I’m a bit miffed really. Cassie called the other night but the reception was terrible so it was only a brief chat. P!sses me off a bit that communications here are so temperamental, but at least they do exist, I guess. Still feel in weekend mode, like I’m going back to work tomorrow. I know I’d feel a thousand times better if the sodding water would just come on *sigh* Glad I did my washing Friday night instead of leaving it ‘til the weekend. I’m quietly hoping it’ll come back on this afternoon, but don’t want to jinx it. Think I’m going to have to buy yet another bucket to put emergency reserves in.

Blah.

The Ambassador’s House

Met up with Alexis Thursday night and went for brochettes. He’s going to help me buy a bed and mattress. Yay. He’s also willing to rent me his computer suite and a qualified IT teacher for my volunteers at RNAD! What a star. Going to put together a package and discuss prices so I can put it to VSO for a small grant in Capacity Building.

Yesterday was... interesting. Everyone was invited to the Ambassador’s house for carol singing. He was leaving the next day as we’re getting a new ambassador, so it was a Christmas-cum-leaving party.

Philip and I took a bus to the Embassy, then started walking. It was a little way away, but we kept going. We were almost there when a huge, sleek black 4x4 pulled up. The electric window whirred down and a voice asked "Are you going to my house?" It was the British Ambassador and he gave us a lift!

Stylish way to arrive. He was telling us he had to leave halfway through because he’d been summoned to the President’s house, probably for a leaving do or something.

Anyway, we arrived at this amazing house, a throwback to the colonial era. Big and beautiful with a marquee on the lawn serving all sorts of imported goods: Bombay Sapphire, scotch, wine, mulled wine, mince pies, vol-au-vents, cheddar and blue cheese, pickle and biscuits. All complimentary.

Keeping in line with the patriotic Union Jack tablecloths, I supped a G&T (with ice and lemon!) or two, and wandered around. There were a few other volunteers there: Mel, Craig, Hannah, Karen, Jo and Sue. Then I had a surprise – Ally, the Scots property lawyer I met on the plane on the way in, was there! That was quite a laugh.

It was an interesting evening, and I drank plenty. G&T, red wine, warm mulled wine – knew I wouldn’t see much of that again for a while!

By the end, most people had left, but I stuck around with Sue and Eric. Then we got a lift with one of the officials and his girlfriends to Kabana, a restaurant-bar near the British Embassy, where Jo was eating with visiting friends. 

Sue and I sat people-watching and talking, quite in-depth, about class divide. It was a good discussion. Interesting though it was to wander around the Ambassador’s grounds and rub shoulders with top-brass in the Foreign Office and upper-class ex-pats, I don’t think I’d like to do it again. The big cars, nice suits and plentiful food - don’t get me wrong - it’s highly seductive,but beyond it there seems to be a bit of a big empty. Especially when you work in a world where kids are under-fed and most families couldn’t afford to buy a glass of wine, yet alone a bottle. The contrast was stark. The ex-pat world is very odd indeed. As Sue said, you socialise with people here that, class-wise, you wouldn’t back home, simply because you’re isolated. It’s a dream world if you make it that way. It really is nice in some ways, but leaves you a bit cold in others.

I dunno. I’m not really sure what I make of it. A little stuffy, perhaps? Which isn’t to knock the hospitality, they didn’t have to invite us. But it was... odd *shrug* Anyway, I woke with a hangover fit for the start of the Christmas holidays ;)

Christmas Spirit?

My kitchen with fixed water filter,
green bathing bucket and gecko cupboard.

Ooookay, I'm afraid I had to laugh at this. 

I took a load of sweets and biscuits into the office today, and some for the Rastas. The idea was that they were for anyone who dropped by, and would last today and tomorrow, which is my last day of work for a week! :) 

They lasted all of about an hour, with one colleague in the office. Then he put the remainder in a locked draw and told me not to tell anyone else they were there, and that he'd eat them when he got back from a meeting!

I couldn't believe it. I explained they were there to share with people - it's what you do at Christmas. He laughed but didn't relent!

I was agog lol Totally stunned.

Christmas really doesn't happen here. Many people work Christmas day just like any other. Woefully lacking in any decorations or cheer. Karen said it's because it's so commercialised in Britain that, although they're very Christian here, a lot of what we do back home has nothing to do with the church, it's capitalism. Which, for obvious reasons, isn't big here - namely, nobody has any money. 

I think, undoubtedly, it is partly to do with that, but I think it's also a seasonal thing. Yule and the mid-winter celebration has always gone on to provide some cheer in the midst of the freezing winter and dark nights. There are other festivals of light held in the darkest times, like Diwali. But here there are no real light/dark seasons. The sun comes up at 6am and sets at 6pm, every day of the year. There are two wet and two dry seasons, neither of which are particularly cold. Also, things grow here all year round, so no agricultural seasons really.

Anyhoo. Tuesday was a great day. Went to VSO to pick up some files on my flash disk and bumped into Karen from Gitarama, trying to send an e-mail. There was a major power cut, so I invited her back to mine to pass the time on my internet connection. We had a really good natter, and she got her e-mails sent, then we went for a working lunch and she explained all about this project she and Antonia have secured funding for from the International Deaf Children's Society, which is brilliant. My organisation will be involved later next year. It's a pre-school communication project to get parents of very young Deaf children to communicate with them.

That was really nice and gave me some news to take back to the office, plus I stuffed my face on melange. Not strategically a good move as I then went for pizza at SoleLuna with Philip that evening. I hadn't eaten so much in weeks! Hugely decadent. Love that restaurant, it's utterly beautiful.

Wednesday was the longest day of my life. Seriously dragged. We're supposed to be filling out a VSO quarterly report form for our project, but let's just say it's never that simple. Lots to be ironed out in the New Year. I was getting frustrated because I desperately wanted to achieve this (to me) simple step forward, but it just wasn't going to happen. Then my colleague disappeared for a meeting and I just sat there twiddling my thumbs for five hours, waiting for a meeting with the Chair in the afternoon. It was a useful meeting, I learned a lot more about how the organisation perceives its situation. It's given me a lot to do in the New Year regarding meetings and workshops to get this project moving forward in the right direction.

I was dead stressed and tired by the end of the day. Today has been about as stressful, with the same issues really, regarding reporting and procedure. I took a huge step back from it all and watched my colleague eat all the biscuits instead ;) Then he left for a meeting and I stayed around for a couple of hours and wrote a story, for lack of anything else to get on with.

I have thankfully managed to have a good chat with Augustin about hours. I've explained that I'm often in the office with very little to actually do and few resources to work with. I put forward the idea in the New Year of having two 'resource days' a week where I can travel out to other organisations, use the VSO resource library, and get on with suff on the internet at home. I have issues with taking my laptop in regularly. As happened to another volunteer, it may get broken or stolen. People also want to use it for the internet, which means it's highly likely to get a virus and people can look into my personal files. Anyway, he said 'yes' happily, so that'll be brilliant. I desperately need a wall planner so that we can start telling each other where we're going to be. Although, Karen started using one and had to explain to her colleagues how to read it! They'd never used a wall calendar before. Everything is stored in their heads as it's an incredibly oral tradition still, people don't read or write much.

I had a similar experience where I filled out a strategic plan as part of a grant application. Along the top were the months: Jan-Dec, then a grid where you coloured in the months that you were going to do each task. I did this in Excel, shading in the months in grey that things would be achieved. I showed it to my colleague and he looked at it and said "That's really good, but I think we need to tell them when we're going to do this." There was a pause. Once I showed him how to read it, he understood instantly, but to begin with he really couldn't see it because it's not something people tend to do here.

It makes you realise how much of what we think is 'obvious' is hugely cultural.

I'm hoping to organise some basic IT training in Excel and Word Processing for some of our volunteers and staff, as part of Capacity Building. I'm discussing the teaching with an IT guy who works for the Rastas next door. I'll ask Alexis tonight if we could hire his computer suite.

Anyway. I got home today really early because there was nothing for me to do again. It is hotting up here now. Combined with the sweets and no proper food, I just passed out when I got in. Fell asleep for an hour and woke to a wonderful, wonderful sound.

The cistern filling up.

It meant I had water! After 24 hours you have no idea what a wonderful thing it is to flush a toilet. I washed my hair in less than two inches of amazi this morning. Plus my internet connection was arsing about and that's just come back online about an hour ago. Been a weird couple of days - everything has been Mercury retrograde.

I am gagging for it to be Friday. Tomorrow night I'm off carol singing at the Ambassador’s house. All the vols have been invited. I'll be very disappointed if the floors aren't paved with Ferrero Rocher :op 

After that, I am going to sleep for England. I feel absolutely, totally whacked. Wondered if I was coming down with something, but think it's honestly just exhaustion. My guard woke me up at ten-to seven this morning to tell me there was a water cut. Errr, thank you Fabian *sigh* He meant well. He was asking whether I wanted him to go get any, but I explained I kept a bucket in case. I may have been a bit curt, I'm not good first thing in the morning. I shall try and make it up.

The kid I gave a peanut butter sandwich to the other day came knocking again. I'm afraid I refused this time. I didn't want to get into the habit of dishing out food because then I'd be obliged to do it. Very sweet kid, and I did feel bad. I don't mind doing something one-off, I just don't want to make it a routine. My home is my sanctuary :o/

Anyway, that's a long enough ramble. I have electricity, water, an internet connection, and I'm going for brochettes with Alexis later, so things are good here. Holiday starts tomorrow! :)

Vegetable Garden & Christmas Shopping

Rwandan Gouda

Well, that's Monday again *sigh* Comes round so fast! Can't believe I've been here a month and a half already. Sue said I seemed like I'd been here a lot longer the other night, which was nice. Means I'm fitting in and setting down okay.

Had another nice, lazy Sunday. Washed my floors and, in the evening, snaffled the last of Dad's chocolate whilst watching Vanity Fair, which I borrowed from our brand-spanking-new DVD library. Bloody depressing film. But, hey ho, two bonuses: Jonathan Rhys Meyers and Gabriel Byrne... okay, so I have very eclectic taste in men.

This morning I passed through the VSO office and exchanged it for Defence of the Realm, another Gabriel Byrne movie. Going to make Sundays my film night. I have to pace myself so I don't run out of films to watch! (Please send us DVDs!)

I took a bisi/bus into work from the office, as it's a bit further in the wrong direction. It's also been blisteringly hot today! Even Rwandans are complaining.

Got quite a bit achieved today, too! Found out lots more about the project. Going to plan a couple of workshops as I think I can see a way to move things along a bit faster.

Bit annoyed as I took the money out to buy my new bed today but, when I got to the shop to pay for it, they upped the price back to FRW 100,000 again!! I couldn't believe it... well, I could. Feck 'em, to be honest. It's a nice bed but I'm bored now. Going to hijack Léon for an afternoon and go to Nyabugogo where I was going to get the mattress. Hopefully we can buy a bed and a mattress in one go *fingers crossed* And, because he'll be with me, they won't arse me about too much. Anyway, their loss, just blew off 80,000 today, plus delivery costs.

I very almost got upset about it then, just as quickly, it passed. I shrugged and hopped on a moto - which made me happy because, when I asked "Kisimenti, nangahe?" he tried 300. I shook my head confidently and said "maganabiri" (200). He smiled and raised his eyebrows to say 'gerron' - so I did lol 

I like getting a moto to my place because it's up a cobbled road - it's funny lol I never get one home from work, I always walk, but today was just way too hot. I would have burned, and I figured I deserved a treat for not caving in to the bed woman.

Then I went shopping and chatted to Geoffrey, the guy who runs the shop (Ndoli's) over the road that I buy my generals at. He's really sweet, always good to chat to. It makes me feel like a local now that I know the shop man and the man who sells me electricity and all that. Even met my next door neighbour the other day. He's a doctor at the local hospital, called Felix. Totally starting to settle in now.

Got followed home from the shops by a bunch of kids. Seemed nice enough. If they were asking me for money it was in a language I didn't understand, which I don't mind.

Did my Christmas shopping, too. Two packs of biscuits (one for the office, one for the Rastas) and two bags of Chocolate Eclairs for the volunteers. Total of about £5. Cheapest Christmas I've ever had.

Dad's birthday was even cheaper as I couldn't send him anything! :op (Sorry Dad!) but he and M were living it up in Madera. Disgusting. Bet they were drinking wine and all sorts....*sigh*

Also treated myself to some local cheese for my sandwiches. It's highly prized by vols. Many can't get it in their local shops, but Ndoli's sells whole ones for FRW 2,000! I just bought a quarter, which will keep me happy for a while.

So, yeah, good day. Starting my guard at 8pm has totally chilled me out, too. I can just potter 'til my heart's content.

Evicted the biggest cockroach in the world today! Martine calls them 'Freds,' and Mum woulda told me to charge it rent. Huge b*st*rd. I saw him in the bathroom last night but assumed he'd find his way out by today... He didn't. To be fair, it's the biggest and only giant bug I've seen since I've been here. Rwanda is blissfully bug free on the whole. My gecko must be slacking, though.

The peas I planted last week are now substantially taller. I was thinking about where I could get some beanpoles, but some big sticks seem to have fallen into my garden from a storm or something last night - they're perfect. My garlic is also reaching for the sky in an S Club Seven kind of way. Tonight I planted some aubergines. See how it goes. I'm taking it steady so's not to jinx anything, but so far so good. I will also plant green peppers, chillies, ginger and tomatoes if all goes according to plan. It's about a 12 month growing season here :op

American Club

American Club, Kigali

Yesterday was grand. Had a really chilled-out day, just pottering and doing my chores: tidying the kitchen and washing my clothes. Lovely hot, sunny day. In the evening Philip picked me up and we headed into town to the American Club, right opposite the Mille Colline/Hotel Rwanda. They were holding a pub quiz and fish & chip night, tickets for a fiver. Really good value, and the Deputy British Ambassador was reading the questions. There was a team from the British Embassy and one from the American Embassy at opposite ends of the covered garden lol

Along with a fish supper, we also received two free beers: big handled ale mugs of draft Mutzig. Jo and Sue (long-term volunteers on the disability team) were there with their Rwandan boyfriends Pierre and Eric. I'd like to hire Eric as my Kinyarwanda teacher, he’s already teaching Mel and he’s a really lovely bloke. Have to see if I can wangle some time from my employer to do that.

We didn’t win the quiz, but we won a prize for originality when Philip sang Oh I Do Like to be Beside the Seaside :op We all got a chocolate bar (yippeeee!) and an official American Embassy, Kigali mug lol

Was a very cool night. More muzungus in one room than I’ve seen since I’ve been here! Sue and I were speculating about who they all were, and what they do. There's a lot of Embassy staff, but also a lot of other people we didn’t recognise.

Today I’m just chilling-out. Probably going to wash the floors, when I can be bothered. Also borrowed Vanity Fair from the DVD library. Will watch that this evening at some point – the first person to borrow from the new library! :)

Jim Henge

Back of Office

Forgot to mention, finally took some photos of the office :op

Entrance

Meeting Room One

Meeting Room Two

 

My Desk

Had a meeting at VSO this morning with Amanda and Martine, learning about the different types of money/funding available to the partner organisations. All very interesting and stuff to think about.

Stayed for some food. You can book in for dinner at VSO for about FRW 700 (70p) and it's generally wholesome and filling. Met up with Sue, who is starting a DVD library upstairs next to the book library. We have a really big selection of fiction and such like to keep the vols entertained, but a DVD library would be ace. If anyone's got any spares to send out, please do.

Also, quick note, Sue filled me in on some information: if you're sending stuff out, always put on the customs form on the back that the package is worth less than £5, otherwise they charge me a fortune this end!

Talking of mail, I got a package today from my friend Jim, who sent me a 'build your own miniature Stonehenge'! So, I have. I have named it Jim Henge and it sits on my shelf :op I'm thinking of adding it to The Modern Antiquarian website ;)

When I got back from the meeting, there was a knock on my gate and a little kid was standing there. He told me he was very hungry and held out his hand. I told him I wouldn't give him money but asked (in Kinyarwanda) whether he'd like a sandwich. He smiled and waited there whilst I brought him back a peanut butter one and a banana. He thanked me in French and went off to eat. Bless. My good deed for the week.

Still having guard issues. He keeps pestering me to give him money to buy household things, so that I'll then pay him to use them (like doing the gardening). Last night he even gave me a spiel about how the last person helped him with his provisional driving license and paid for him to do the exam. I think he was alluding to me paying for the final exam. I've been incredibly polite so far, but I am seriously getting to the end of my tether. If it continues, we are going to have to have a very serious discussion about this. He turned up last night stinking of booze. I'm stress managing by starting him later; usually guards start at 6pm but I'm starting him now at 8pm just because I'd rather he wasn't here to bother me. He said he thinks we'll be really good friends and that I'll be able to help him with things (like driving) - I think he's got another thing coming if he carries on the way he is.

But anyway. I have a pet :) I went into the larder last night and turned on the light - this absolutely gorgeous baby gecko, all translucent and bulgy-eyed, leapt out from behind the cupboard, realised he'd exposed himself, and darted back again. Soooo sweet. I'm happy to have him stay as he'll keep any cockroaches at bay. Just hope that doesn't mean there's an abundance of them behind my food cupboard! Heehee.

Deaf Genocide

Triumphant day today - finished the HIV/AIDS funding application and e-mailed it from my laptop. Most excellent considering Léon had estimated it would take another week! Huzah! :op

Really proud of that achievement.

We have a dead weird flyer in the office. There's a lot of political argument going on at the moment in Europe, and especially the UK (where they're about to pass a law), against geneticists preventing Deaf families from choosing to have a Deaf baby. It's a very hot debate and one which I won't go into here because it would take for ever.

Anyway, this flyer that's in our office is from Denmark (I think) and depicts a bunch of white, presumably Deaf, kids piled up like genocide victims with the title in bold: 'DEAF OR DEAD?' The idea links genetic engineering, and the eradication of deafness, to the eradication of a cultural and linguistic minority group.

Back in Britain I probably wouldn't have blinked at that, it's a message that's been bandied about for a long time. But I bet when they designed that flyer they never once thought that a Deaf person in Rwanda, who had actually lived through genocide, would pick it up. The looks on the faces of my colleagues were not so amused. Many of my colleagues have lost their parents and other family members in 1994. It does give you a different perspective on certain advertising methods.

Moving on. Léon helped me beat the price of the bed I wanted down from FRW 100,000 to 80,000, which is what I wanted to pay for it in the first place :) So grateful for that. Hopefully going buy it on Tuesday. Helps to have a Rwandese friend who likes shopping ;) He said he had the same problem in Ethiopia, he'd get charged more because they knew he was an outsider.

Also got hugged on the way into work today! Two women were walking along with three of the most gorgeous little children. I smiled and the kids ran over to shake my hand. They're generally fascinated by white skin - one threw his arms around me and hugged me! :op

Umwijima, Tilapia and Good Company

Tilapia

Another stunningly good day today. Called a staff meeting this morning and people actually came! Managed to plough through a funding application for HIV/AIDS projects from that workshop I went to last month. It did take the whole day as there was so much to do. Plus, an absolutely gorgeous blokey from the local Dutch disability group came round to gather information about our organisation, which was a bit of a distraction ;)

Headed back after. Augustin (head dude – my big boss) took me for a drink (or three!) and we ate umwijima – liver brochettes – at a very local bar. It was a lot like the one I went to with that guy last Friday. You know it’s a local place because the toilet was literally a wet hole in the ground and you had to hold your breath! My first time using a traditional Rwandan squat-hole – hardcore in comparison to Nairobi airport. I did well with the aim, but my trousers smell slightly pee-ish as I didn’t roll them up off the ground. This is quite usual for squat-holes apparently lol It was an experience.

It was dark by the time we left – good bonding session, though. Ended up on a moto back home and straight into the Globe, a lovely bar next door to my house, where Philip, Mel, Joanne, Morley and Craig were gathered. Philip treated us all to two massive tilapia (fish) platters with potato, and fish brochettes for starters. Hands jobbie again. Alcohol dry handwash is worth its weight in gold here! Utterly stuffed now, and more than ready for bed at twenty-to ten. It's great here as you tend to get home early due to the early dark. It always feels later than it is, so socialising tends to start and end early.

It was a truly lovely night. Good beer, good food, and good company. I’m so lucky to have such a lovely placement. The people I work with are so good to me. I’m starting to relax a bit now, getting to understand the game.

AKR Interpreting and Ms. Paula Waragi

My Christmas present from Paula

 

Had an absolutely brilliant night last night. Paula from Gahini visited. She is flying home to Armagh for Christmas today, and needed a place to crash. We started off with Mel at Bar Stella for a beer, then we planned to go for Italian at SoleLuna but when we walked down there it was closed. I think something must have been going on as there was barely anyone on my walk to work. Instead, we took a wander down to the bar I went to with Philip last time, and ordered tilapia (huge fish) and chips which you eat with your hands. Paula, the dirty, filthy influence that she is, bought a bottle of waragi (surprise, surprise) which we split - and finished! - with coke.

We were blottoed by the time we got back. Which may explain how we managed to walk up an incredibly uneven hill without falling down any man-eating holes, or getting hit by a moto. Everyone knows alcohol improves your night vision and balance ;)

Had a gorgeous, relaxed breakfast this morning. It was lovely as I rarely eat breaky, but I'd done a shop the day before. She even bought me a Christmas/thank-you pressy. It's a beautiful batik of three women carrying pots in the sun. I was utterly touched.

So, we wandered towards VSO about half-eight this morning and she hopped on a moto. I was wandering into the office to pick up the RNAD office keys which I'd left with Betty (our interpreter) yesterday. She was going to lock up, then drop off the keys at VSO when she went to do a Sign Language lesson for the staff there. Apparently the lesson didn't take place, and there were no keys to be found. It was very fortuitous I went in though, as I bumped into Martine, who told me about a major partnership funding meeting taking place that morning! None of my lot professed to know anything about it so I texted them the details.

Léon turned up, then left to sort out the office keys. 

Augustin turned up later.

Which was interesting.

Because I ended up interpreting :op

It was the weirdest set-up in the world. A meeting conducted largely in French, and some Kinyarwanda, with English translation for me so that I could translate into AKR (Rwandan Sign Language)!

I did really well, though. Almost four hours straight, into a sign language that I'm still learning. Augustin said it was very clear and he understood everything! I was so proud, but utterly, utterly shattered by the end. 

Quad-lingual and even bi-lingual meetings don't really work. In Wales it was usually concurrent interpreting between Welsh/English: people wearing headsets and listening to the translation at the same time it's being spoken in the first language, which isn't bad at all. 

This was all consecutive interpreting, so we had to stop every few minutes to translate the next chunk. The people translating French and English, like me, were all also participants, so they'd get engrossed in what was being said and forget to interpret a lot of the time. 

It was a bit hectic. Luckily, Augustin lip-reads Kinyarwanda perfectly and could also understand a lot of French, and some English, depending on who was talking. I know I started well, but after the first couple of hours I started to lag badly because it's so tiring. Especially after a night on the waragi. So much listening to chunks of conversation you don't understand is tiring, too. Certainly makes for long meetings.

But it was an experience, and I'm glad I did it. I get the feeling it might not be the last time now that people know I can. It's been a long time since I was last flapping my hands about in such a capacity - it's fun in small doses lol My AKR is certainly improving no end!

Catch-up

I've been a bit lax the past few days. Haven't felt so much like writing. I think it's because I've been writing so prolifically - needed a wee break.

Been quite productive recently. Dad managed to transfer some money via Western Union,which is far easier than the bank and cheaper too, apparently. With my Christmas-cum-birthday money I went and bought an internet connection :) Little portable modem you slot into a USB drive and off you go. It's brilliant. A bit slow, but pretty reliable, and it means I can stay in touch with the world from home and get on with work at the office if I take my laptop in. It's brilliant :)

Going to go and buy a bed this week, too. Saw a beautiful single. Rather pricey (because I'm a muzungu) and you have to go into town to get a mattress, but it will make a world of difference. Just hope it fits through the narrow doors here. I'm maybe going to send Léon to get a quote on the bed. If they charge him less I'll try bartering and catch them out. 

My guard is also pestering me for money at the moment. If I have problems getting the bed into the house, he can earn some money by taking it apart and re-building it. I'm a bit annoyed about this, it's like having a beggar in my back garden. He keeps telling me how much money he earned in his last job before his contract ended, and how hard it is to find work, and how much less he's getting paid for doing this, but how 'at least it's a job'. Then he keeps telling me he wants to do my housework. I keep telling him that I don't want him to do my housework - not interested in someone coming into my house to clean it when I'm perfectly capable of doing that for myself. I like looking after my own home, it doesn't take much effort. 

I'm also trying to grow some vegetables. If it works, I will plant more. Then maybe he can earn a little helping to take care of them, as it would come from the money I would be saving from not going shopping. We'll see. I have the occasional errand that I need help with, like sorting out the rubbish collection system, which is still a mystery to me. I give him a sandwich and a cup of coffee each night. But I'm not going to start giving my money away for things I can do myself. I'm certainly not going to make up the wages he isn't making from his last job. Thankfully, today is his day off, so I don't have to worry about it. I've asked him to start at seven instead of six, which gives me an hour after dark to finish cooking and pottering before he arrives. Stress management.

Seriously lost it the other day at the Post Office. Karen texted me to let me know I had a parcel waiting. When I got there, they told me that I didn't. Then they realised they might have, and took me to the parcel pick-up point. The man in front of me was collecting a small parcel that had been there for about three days. He was charged FRW100/10p for collecting it. Apparently, here you have to pay the post office a daily charge for 'looking after' your parcel. 

Mine had been there two days - they charged me FRW2,500/£2.50!!! I was livid. Corrupt little... grrrrr. What's worse is that they never left me a slip to tell me I had a parcel. If Karen hadn't told me, I assume it would go up by over a pound a day (because I'm white) until I guessed it was there. But what can you do? If you don't pay, no parcel. 

Now that I've calmed down, I'm going to write an incredibly polite, sweet letter to the Manager, asking him just to clarify the daily 'protection costs' that I should expect to pay, so that I know for next time. Also, to explain that most of my parcels are charity aid and that, although I fully understand paying the charge, if I don't know my parcel is there and cannot afford to pay the costs that amount, it will be depriving good work in Rwanda. I won't be holding my breath, but it will make me feel slightly better.

I was a bit stressed after that day and came home to chill-out, but a Rwandese friend popped round for dinner. I was way too tired and feeling a bit tearful, but I cooked for him and the guard anyway. Cheered up a bit by the end. It's very difficult to be so upset over corruption when someone's seen their family murdered in front of them and had to flee as a refugee to save their life. You feel a bit ashamed of being so feeble, so you try and put a brave face on until they've left. That's why it's so good having the VSO network, because they know exactly what you feel like and why. They don't worry about it because they know it'll pass quickly, which it does. It was just bad timing really, when I'm in that sort of mood I just want everyone to p!ss off, lock my doors against the world, eat chocolate (thanks Dad), read my book, or rant to my family on the phone :) Not a gracious hostess, but I don't care.

So, there have been a few stressful moments. It's been a week now since I visited the Memorial Centre, but, actually, I think it's still affecting me. Found myself getting quite tense and angry about it. I now understand what Martine meant when she didn't want to come on a trip to Nyarubuye because she's still in her 'angry phase'. It's bizarre how intense you feel, and you can't rationalise quite why. So I'll just let it wash over me for now. I'm going to put some time aside to practice the Buddhist Mindfulness of Breathing and especially Metta Bhavana meditations, to help lift the mood and balance it out.

Yesterday was a brilliant day. One of the guys at the office actually used the Project Planning Form that I developed. I originally did it for the BDA in Cardiff, to help people plan out projects they wanted to develop so that it made it easier for me to identify possible funding sources. I was really surprised. I thought they'd just get shoved in a draw and forgotten. So, that's given me something to really focus on. We're developing an HIV/AIDS and Deafness strategy for 2008. I'm also developing an application for a project to help reach Deaf genocide survivors and collect art, stories, and poetry from them to compile a book/DVD.

On the way home yesterday, someone tapped me on the shoulder and it was a Deaf guy I met at Nyanza. I hadn't eaten again all day and was soooo hungry. He was standing outside a café and asked if I fancied a drink. I leapt at the chance and we sat drinking coke and eating spicy fish brochettes. It was exactly what I needed on a Friday afternoon. We signed about all sorts of things, from how children's TV (the TellyTubbies were on) must have been invented by people on hallucinogens, to the Virunga National Park and visiting the gorillas. My AKR is coming along leaps and bounds! We left as it was starting to get dark. He's off to Uganda to visit family, but I'm looking forward to seeing him when he gets back. I felt so happy and relaxed on the walk home.

People stare open-mouthed when they see me signing in the street with my colleagues. Martine said she noticed the same at Nyanza. Signing is interesting in itself, but a white person signing is fascinating. I think it's brilliant. I get a bit annoyed some days when people stare and shout at me just because I'm white, but I like it when people do it because I'm signing. I hope it helps to raise awareness of it as a serious language and interests people enough to learn. Vive la sign language!

Aaaanyway. It's all good really. Hopefully Paula is coming to stay tomorrow. Haven't got a bed yet, but have cushions. She's flying home for Christmas (loads of people are! :o( ) on Tuesday, so needs a place to crash. We'll go to the Italian up the road for a treat. The thought of pizza is mouth-watering!

Just having a very chilled-out weekend at the moment. Going to go and do my washing. There was a spectacular thunder storm yesterday - it's overcast today but not actually raining, so I'll risk it :)