Two Poems from Kigali

Been a while since I posted 'stuff'. So, in a change from my usual theme of goblins and fairies, here's a couple on Rwanda:

The Man with no Arms and no Legs

My French friend Martine in Nyamirambo;
I visit her sometimes.
The first time and the second, and many after that
I arrive on the steep cobbled street
I pay the moto and turn up-hill towards her house
There, in front of me, I see a man
Walking.
He is about hip-height to me, swaying effortfully side-to-side
On account of having no legs and no arms.
His kneecaps are strapped into threadbare flip-flops with lengths of cloth as padding.
His elbows push the invisible half of themselves forwards and backwards
As though clutching at the railing of wind that will fill his sails and bring
This exhausting climb
To an end.
Up, up he goes
And on, on I stride; tall and strong and complete, towards my friend’s door.
The first time, and the second, and many after that
It sticks the back of my throat
Not because he has no arms and no legs.
Home, where I’m from, a birth defect perhaps. Thalidomide.
Here, I know that somebody has physically held him down
Face pushed to the dirt floor
And hacked off the parts his mother gave him.
Perhaps he passes them every day on his long, steep climb, to the top
Of a long, steep hill. 

Moto Mania

The tilt of evening when the warmth of day and night’s bite kiss lips
I sit pillion upon the back of a public motorbike, legs wrapped around
A man in green waterproof tunic and green helmet
The numbers 1547 printed in yellow
As we glide through the twisting rivers of road between my home
And my friend’s.
Half a city away, half a city to go
Arms folded in front of me, not clinging to my driver
Attracting social scorn in the way of unknowing tourists
Nor clutching at the bar behind in the way of nervous people
But folded neatly between my chest and his back, in the way of locals.
Each day I take a dirty, dusty, bumpy moto ride to work
But this, this is an adventure. Tonight I am a Queen gliding
Her dragon-winged beast through the stellar universe
To Sun City Hotel.
Traversing the worlds between my house and hers:
The warm balmy air of Kisimenti where we weave between
People invisible in the dark, and the dazzling headlights of oncoming vehicles
Then to the silent, deep voids of the lowland marshes where
Thick blankets of white mist lie still and silent as an eerie lake
Skin once sweaty and glowing, now rough with goosebumps.
But nothing surpasses the wonder of Nyamirambo itself
The Muslim quarter, paved with hair salons and clothes shops;
Part of the city that never sleeps.
Although I love to look, I love to close my eyes
Guided by all the smells of this nocturnal stretch:
Popcorn, car fumes, ripe pineapple, goat meat
Sewage, mud, warm brick and incense sticks.
I love them all, this mélange of city scent –
The sweet, the bitter, and the indefinable.

Aweeee, No Fair :(

Waragi

 

I've got a stinking head cold and a weekend of hard partying ahead. This isn't fair!

Cathryn's been staying the past couple of nights and we may have been drinking. It's been really fun. Last night we randomly bumped into Han, Mans, Judy and Maxime at La Planet next door.

It's been great fun, but last night I got a really sore throat and felt a bit clammy - not good. Woke up this morning feeling uber yuck. Very worrying with the whole Nyagatare/Gahini thing looming. Luckily it's a pretty chilled-out week 'til then, so I've dosed myself up on garlic, LemSip (please send more capsules and nose spray! - painkillers always welcome in this country) and vitamin pills.

Antonia is popping over later to store some of her stuff at my house and have a natter over lunch about this project. She's offered to feed me, so I'm thinking a nice fat Omelette Special at Stella might make me feel better. I also have some knock-out chilli left over from last night to have for supper. Shall feed myself up and do all I can to get back on the waragi train in time.

I also have to attempt not to fall down the hole outside my drive. Came home Monday and a whole load of men with pickaxes were laying cable. Only, they've dug a trench outside my gate about 3ft deep by 1ft wide and it's been there ever since. It runs the whole length of the street. They knocked on my door for water. I gave them all the spare I could afford. Then they started begging, so I closed the gate and felt a bit pissed off to be honest. I wonder if they were TIG (Work of General Interest/Prison Scheme) workers? It was a bit intimidating and I wonder when they're going to fill in the hole.

Anyway. I need to get better, need to get better, need to get better... If the worst happens, I guess I could forego Nyagy and just do Gahini, but I'd like to go to Nyagy because I've never been and it'd be fun going with Martine and Berta. Might not make salsa tomorrow night, though. Please send healing vibes!

Smitten Kitten

Natty Dread in Kigali 2012

AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!! EEEEEEEPPP!

*cough*

Ahem.

Well, as first dates go, wasn't bad ;)

AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAHHHHHHHH heeheehee.

Crap. Something has got to be wrong, it was too nice. Seriously, I'm concerned.

So, it wasn't just a music festival, it was a massive concert televised across the whole of Rwanda with stars flying in from Jamaica, one of Bob Marley's best mates (Natty Dread) opening, and the Minister of Culture giving a one minute silence to the memory of Lucky Dube. It was awesome.

Tons of amazing Intore dancing, with around 80 dancers filling the arena, and fireworks. Outstanding night for £1 a ticket!!

Cathryn and Judy were supposed to turn up, but I've no idea if they made it as it was packed. The phone network was locked off. So, it was just me and he grooving on the benches. He was explaining all about the dancing and what people were saying. There was even one part which was sung in yea oldy Kinyarwandery - ancestral Kinya - like Shakespeare is to us, so he couldn't understand all of it. It was used to serenade the King before presenting the spoils of war.

The dancing was outstanding but, halfway through, the back crowd started booing and hissing. JM explained 'they're bored'. I had to laugh at this, it was a veeeeerry long dance and most people were there to see the reggae stars. I suppose it would be a bit like being back in England and subjected to Morris Dancing for two hours straight. The novelty soon wears off lol

Partway through the evening he seemed a bit distracted. When I asked why, he said this guy next to us was insulting another guy in front of us, at which point we entertained ourselves by writing down lists of swear words in Kinyarwanda that I need to go away and learn. I feel it's important to know when people are insulting you ;)

On the way back (along a very, very dark road heaving with people squeezing between moving cars!) a moto driver shouted 'igicucu' at another guy. I understood straight-off, he was shouting 'idiot'! Heeheehee. My lessons are paying off already.

We went for a last drink at Stella on the way home. He lives in Gikondo, which is up the road from me. It used to be a 40p moto ride away, but it's gone up to 70p recently, which sucks as that's the same as town. Expensive :(

He shares with two other friends and usually hangs out at the Pasadena. He spent part of his childhood growing up in Burundi when his family fled during '94, but he has both his parents still and seven brothers and sisters. Most of them have been through, or are still going through, university.

He is very handsome. He has yummy muscles in his arms and he's driven, motivated, intelligent and down-right gorgeous. I've had a lovely night, hope to see him at salsa if not before.

Just can't help feeling a little bothered by all this. It does seem too good. Going to take this veeeeery sloooooowly just in case.

But, eeeep!

It was a lovely night. He's fun to hang out with, which is important. I sent Jo a text at the very beginning, on the moto to Gisozi, saying I was sick with nerves as he was so beautiful. She very wisely replied "Ha excellent. Just make sure he makes you laugh too." I love Jo, no idea what I'll do without her :(

But let's not think on that.

For the time being, I'm going to try and think as little as possible. If I start thinking, I’ll start over analysing - him, her, the whole everybody leaving situation. Best just to ride the wave and see which beach I land on.

What a lovely night :)

Dishy Date

Oooooh ‘eck. Thought I was going to burst last night.

Cathryn’s parents fly home today so me, she, Judy and they, all headed to India Khazana where I ate my weight in food! It was utterly wonderful. We headed back to Stella for a last drink. Going to be sad to see them go, they’ve been lovely and I’ve not eaten so much in my life!

Anyway, just spent the morning down at the pool. I've got plenty of exercise to try and work off the disgusting amount of chocolate I've eaten recently (thanks Mum, Dad & Aunty Jean) - really have been on a binge, but did share with the guys at the Post Office, plus Martine and Rose.

It's been a glorious day today, nice and hot. Topped up my tan. It's been cold here recently, and overcast. Thankfully not much rain.

I'm quite excited today, though. There's a reggae music festival over near Gisozi tonight and Judy, possibly Cathryn, and some ex-VSOs are likely to be going. I'm not too sure where the venue is, so I've arranged to meet John-Marie at Pasadena, which is near where he lives. We're going together as he knows the way. I've got the thumbs-up from Jo and Pierre on this one lol He does have very beautiful eyes...

Anyway. I'm silly excited nervous. He's been a real gent so far, although he's a bit strapped for cash as he's a fresh graduate He's 25 - everyone I meet here is 25! Regis, D, John-Marie... He only started work two weeks ago so hasn't had his first pay cheque yet. Think I'll cope with that though, given the past four months *sigh* 

He's also an Accountant... nobody laugh ;) Young enough not to be boring yet! Apparently, in the UK, accountants have the most number of hidden body piercings of any other profession (can't remember where I read that) so they do have a 'fun' side :op Anyway, he works with Pierre at the national blood testing clinic. They go out collecting blood for transfusions, like in the UK, and their job is to test the blood for things like HIV, malaria etc. and make sure it's fit to use. Interesting stuff.

I'm very nervous. I've only met him twice: Thursday at salsa and Friday at cabaret/Cadillac. Both times we were with other people and it was all a bit lively and fuzzy. There may have been Mutzig involved! I don't really know him well enough to say whether there's potential there, I'm just going on looks right now lol We're meeting at six and going to head over there a bit early to check out the scene, see what's going on. Apparently it's starting at 3pm, but someone said there's going to be a load of speeches beforehand (they like that here) so decided to skip that bit.

I'm feeling well chilled out. Exercise gets me feeling all good and I just washed my hair with some amazing sampoo that my aunt sent out. There's a cold shower down at the pool, so I took full advantage, even shaved my legs! I think it's the first time my hair has been properly proper clean since Kampala. Smells luuuurvly. Also done my nails and need to decide what to wear. Can't make it a late night as I need to get some sleep for work tomorrow. Antonia cancelled her bash in Butare. Think she forgot it was umuganda (national community 'everything's closed' day) - hence I'm at home this weekend, but I've had a great one, and it's building up to the double whammy next weekend. It'll be wicked.

Eeeep.

Wish me luck :op

Sliiiiightly Hung-Over

Salsa at Gikondo

Aw.

Very cool night last night.

The day was a bit pants. Second month now that only myself and Martine have turned up to Capacity Building. The problem stems from 1) there being hardly anyone left in the country and 2) those who are left are all based out of town and there's no transport fund for this working group. We're thinking of cancelling it until the really big intake in January, then trying again.

Still, Paula was also there. We devoted the session to counselling her on her current relationship predicament, and Martine went through the French translation of the constitution for the NGO I'm setting up with Rose. It has to be in French, English and Kinya, but the translations are always appalling so I wanted to make sure it's as right as it can be. It's a nightmare. We have to do the same for the website. Phil's partner Chloe is doing the French. Hopefully David from salsa will do the Kinya for me.

Martine and I went for a drink at Stella after that and I met a new volunteer called Shelina who is only here for four months. She's done the VSO rounds just about everywhere, including Mongolia, and is now based in Nairobi. She's just here to review our National Volunteering Programme, so working as management on a VSO salary - painful. Really nice lady. There are no motos in Kenya apparently! I thought it was a pan-African thing. I popped home to change after that and slipped into the funky halterneck Martine gave me.

Anyway, last Thursday I went to salsa again. It was a brilliant night: Pierre, Jo, Rose, David (the great dance partner) and a very, very cute guy called John who is a brand new colleague of Pierre's at the blood testing clinic. He's in the finance department (yes, an accountant!). Had an excellent night and learned tons of new steps, but I'm not great at cross body leads. Need to practice.

I thought that was my exercise over for the week, but then I learned that Friday nights at Pasadena are even better - cabaret!

Cathryn invited Martine and myself to New Cactus for a wonderful meal (went for the frogs' legs again), then Martine and I shared an amazing avocado, egg and ham salad with tilapia in mushroom sauce. Mmmmm. Cathryn's parents are flying home tomorrow, so it was a penultimate treat.

After that, they all headed off to bed (light weights ;)) and I hopped a moto to Pasadena to meet up with Jo, Pierre, Judy, her boyfriend Maxime, David and the dishy John.

The cabaret was bizarre but highly entertaining and I was in heaven squished between David and John who were giving me a full translation of the Swahili, Luganda and Kinyarwanda. There was a very skinny girl who was sort of belly-dancing whilst lip syncing to songs about teenage drinkers. At one point she lay on her back and did the worm across the floor by undulating her belly/back.

There were two tall Ugandan guys who whited-up (think Minstrels in reverse) and pretended to be muzungus with huge padded bellies and bums - they lip-synced an act about HIV/AIDS before one of them closed the night by sliding across the floor on his padded belly, collecting FRW 100 notes that people had thrown. It was very funny, especially to see how they portrayed muzungus. There's this caricature they have as well, I saw it at the Deaf theatre too, of a guy with a big belly and a hat. He looks just like you'd imagine one of the Bawon lwa to appear in his trickster form in West African Vodoun. I asked about this but David said it wasn't linked.

It was a really fascinating experience to see cultural comedy and what makes people laugh. Really good night.

Then David, John and I took a taxi to Cadillac. It's awful to say, but it was really nice being out with guys who could pay the taxi and buy me a drink now and then. You don't keep wondering how much a night out is going to cost you :o/

Anyway, Cadillac was excellent. I didn't stay long as I was already quite tired. David went home before me as he'd had rather a bit to drink. John was just soooo lovely, though. Really considerate guy - beautiful eyes. We arrived at midnight. It was still a bit quiet but, by the time I left at half-one, it was pumpin'.

One complete stranger paid me a lovely compliment. He told me 'you dance like an African' - which was really sweet. There were a few other muzungus there, some dancing well and others (probably tourists or visiting NGOers) doing the squaddy shuffle. It was nice being out of the group as it were, hanging with Rwandese friends. I'd never have understood the play if I hadn't been with them, and they usually dance better too ;)

John walked me to a moto when I was tired and we said goodnight. As we were pulling away, the moto driver picked up that I was happy (grinning like a Cheshire cat) and told me I looked beautiful! He didn't mean it in a letchy way, just really simple and sweet. People have been paying me random compliments all week, telling me I'm looking slim, that I can dance well, and that I'm pretty. I have no idea where it's all coming from - planetary maybe - but it's sure making me feel good!

Obviously, getting rid of a man is good for you ;) 

Ladies, don't delay! Ditch him today. It'll do wonders for your health ;)

Oh dear... or what if it's because I've met another one?

*gulp*

Sun City

Alpha Palace gym is very disappointing, will have to look somewhere else.

Had a good night out with Martine, though. We went for food and drinks at Sun City. We were served by a very cute guy called Casmir who speaks English, French and Kinya (probably also Swahili) – impressive guy. When he left, I commented to Martine how good-looking he was. Later, whilst she was on the phone to her brother, he came over and asked for my e-mail address. That in itself is rather odd because not many people use e-mail, they usually ask for your number. I made him work for it, asking ‘why’ with my best suspicious air, but he won me round and I wrote it down. Whether he e-mails or not, it’s always nice when someone who catches your eye responds. Compliment, especially from an intelligent, multi-lingual kinda guy.

I’m feeling really on the up at the moment. Work’s going well, cats are happy and healthy, I’m feeling fit and attractive, and lots of good things to look forward to. I’m off to Butare at the weekend for Antonia’s official goodbye. The weekend after there’s a double whammy: big party right up in Nyagatare where Chris lives, then back down through Gahni for another at Jambo Beach. Bit tough getting up to Nagy on a Friday, but will take the afternoon off work and go with Martine and Bearta if possible. Should be fun, I’ve never been there.

Today Léon, Gerard and Francois are off to the American Embassy to chat about the project I put in for. If all goes well they will probably fund it. Problem being that it’s a very similar project (identical some might say) to that which VSO are also about to fund – ho hum. Never expect to get lucky twice ;) The project revolves around training sign language teachers and rolling out a teaching programme, as well as setting up a lobbying committee so, realistically, it would just mean a much larger budget so that we can train twice as many people :) Shhhhh!

Splishy Splashy

Colourfield by Shane Irwin

 

Having a really good week so far. Cathryn’s parents are over and I met up with them at SoleLuna on Saturday night, which was lovely. There was a ton of pizza left over, so I got it wrapped up (you can do that anywhere here) and brought it home. I was going to eat it for breakfast but we all decided to take a stroll down to Nyuraturama for the day. Cathryn and I had a good splash about in the pool, then we had lunch there. Her mum very kindly bought mine, which was a lovely treat!

When I got back the cats had broken into the store cupboard and eaten the pizza lol I forgave them, I can only manage one proper meal a day now. I'll have to get into training for when my folks come out as there’ll be plenty to eat then.

It was interesting listening to what Cathryn's parents thought of the country, sort of a dress rehearsal for September ;) The word they used was ‘extreme’ which is interesting because it’s the word all us vols use too, even those who have been here a few years. Rwanda is a country of extremes: major ups and major lows. That holiday vibe side-by-side with real poverty.

So, it was a very chilled-out and relaxing weekend. I was dreading Monday. Our next round of funding has been approved by VSO, but there’s been a bit of a fuddle with the accounts which has to be ironed out before we get it. Thankfully, the whole meeting was in Kinya so I didn’t have to participate (Francois interpreted for me by lip reading Kinya into AKR/sign). It wasn’t as disastrous as I’d been bracing myself for. After what seemed like a lot of shouting and head-shaking everyone stood up, hugged, and said it was all good :) They’ve had another meeting today which I wasn’t required at, to get the details agreed. It’ll all be ooookaaaay.

Essentially, we were running in arias with the funding due to a hiccup at the start, which VSO didn’t spot until they revamped the finance department. It’s nothing critical and, now it’s sorted, we can start again properly with the next lot. We were joking because Léon’s delayed salary has been sanctioned by VSO from the transport fund, but Augustin is really reluctant to pay him because he wants to use the transport money for volunteers. I was going on at him, telling him he had to pay Léon. He turned around and said that I should pay him, then shook his head and signed "No, she can’t pay him, she’s poor – look how much weight she’s lost." 

I had to laugh. Weight here is a direct measure of wealth. I do seem to be shedding it, though. Dad sent me some elasticated waist size 12 jogging bottoms so that I can start going to the gym. I looked at them and laughed thinking ‘yeah, right,’ but they fit!! They’re snug, but they fit. My jaw cracked as it hit the floor. There are no scales or large mirrors here, so you never think much about your body shape. I think they’re a bit generous as I was size 12-14 top and size 16 bum when I got here, now I fit size 14 (and elasticated 12 :op) bum and 12-14 tops. Top doesn’t change – less of a tum but ample bust :)

I do appear to have dropped a dress size, though. It’s a bit unusual as most men lose a lot of weight here but most women pile it on! I think it’s not having anywhere to go and eat properly at work, and just general laziness when it comes to cooking. No complaints, though. Nice African suntan, slimmer body and all. I don’t smoke anymore either, and rarely drink much now that everyone’s gone. Not much of a social life.

Having said that, I’m meeting up with Martine tonight for a few bevvies. I also received a ton of parcels today – thanks Mum, Dad and Aunty Jean! Filled with cuppa soup, chocolate, instant cappuccino, hot chocolate, herbs, spices and cooking sauces. Soooo good. Can’t wait to try out the sauces. I'll go do some shopping probably on Thursday.

The cats have made a good recovery and all back to normal. House is once again spotless, thanks to Karzai. He really is an absolute godsend. I don’t think I could go back to doing all the housework myself.

We've been experiencing power cuts a lot the past couple of days, which is unusual for my house, though the VSO office five doors up gets them all the time. The internet’s also been out for the past couple of days. Jo said MTN’s fallen apart again. I was tripping over cats in the dark with candles most of last night.

Still embroiled in my row with Electrogaz. I sent a very assertive ‘your company sucks, get your act together’ letter addressed to the Managing Director today. First letter I’ve ever sent in Rwanda as it takes so long to find a printer that works, buy an envelope, and get to the posting section of the Post Office. I’m about certain it won’t get a response, but it’s my last-ditch attempt before I go to VSO and cry. It does appear to be air pressure in the pipes. I was watching my meter today and it’s whizzing round but there’s no water on anywhere in the house. Bizarre.

So, all is kind of cool and relaxed at the moment. I’m heading down to Butare again on Saturday and staying over for Antonia’s goodbye bash. By the end of September there won’t be anyone I was on training with still in my area. Mel and Loona are the only two still local to me, and they’re both leaving. Joanne and Morley are in Kigali and leaving. Martine’s going home for three months… everyone else is based out of town. Quiet times ahead.

Flookily, I also noticed that one of my uni tutors from Reading/TAEDS, Shane Irwin, also seems to have skipped the country and joined the VSO train in Papua New Guinea! Small world. It is the way to go if you want out of the UK short or long-term.

Right, I’m off to visit the Sign Language Dictionary publisher now. I'm supposed to be going with my colleague but, what a surprise, he's a no-show ;) I’m swinging back home via Alpha Palace to check out the gym prices, then out for drinkypoos with Martine.

Aaah, hard life ;)

Electrogaz is a Big Fat Pile of Stinky Pants That Hasn't Been Washed for a Year

Pretty much what the title says, really ;)

Following on from my previous post entitled: "Electrogaz Sucks - Boo Hiss" I would once again like to rant about the state of this godforsaken wreck of a company who even beat yea oldy defuncty NTL and TeleWest for utter and complete lack of any form of customer care or corporate efficiency. The stench of incompetence wafts across the otherwise beauteous hills of Kigali like month-old cheese in the sun.

This guy who checks my meter just came round again and confirmed what I'd known all month: my meter hasn't moved. Apparently, he informed me, without the slightest shade of doubt, I have used absolutely no water at all this month.

The bill stands at a whopping FRW 58,469. That's more than most people's water bill for a year, yet I'm supposed to have spent this in the space of a month ;)

Titwanks.

Excuse my French ;)

I've now sent them four e-mails, two directly to the man I went to see. No reply. Nobody ever came to check the system.

I can't help wondering, given that there's clearly a problem, whether perhaps I should pay the bill and just agree with the inspector about the broken meter that from now on I spend absolutely nothing at all on water? lol Free for the next 1.5 years.

Anyway, at least now I have actual proof in my hands that they're a group of eeejits, so I can go and do battle once more in the offices of retardation. Lucky me, getting to waste even more hours of my life on this bunch of lumpits. Arse... elbow... helloooo, anybody?

"Yes, yes," I hear you say. "That's all very well, but how are the cats!?"

They're fine :) The boys have made a full recovery already! Quite amazing. They woke me up at 2am. Mao has this voice that sounds just like a human saying 'aaawwww' - as in 'aw, my bollox have just been chopped off!'. Bless 'im.

Sula is a little less sturdy just yet. Hers was a much bigger operation and she is still fragile, so I'm giving her lots of attention. The vet said to keep her separate because of her stitches, but I'm afraid I couldn't do that. They've never been apart before and she looked rather distressed by being locked in a room on her own. I let her out and she seemed to perk up. She's spending a lot of time by herself, sunbathing outside the front door, but she is eating a little - which is an excellent sign - and she even purred earlier :)

They'll be fine. Poor loves.

Had another slightly lazy day today, sorting out a project for VSO/Antonia, and waiting for Gerard. He never turned up, so I got to come home and keep an eye on my kitties. Didn't go to salsa last night though Martine, David and Jo were all there - my kits needed me! I'll work it off in the pool this weekend.

:))

We're all okay. Alphonse, the vet, called around ten forty-five. I called Said, my taxi driver, and we went to collect them.

They were all fine, nicely tucked up in their baskets. Alphonse said the boys didn't even bleed, which is a good sign. He said the boys should be up and about in a couple of hours, but Sula will be out for a bit longer as she's under heavier anaesthetic. She needs to be kept separate for about a week in a safe room until her wound heals. I've turned the second spare room into a Sula sanctuary. The two boys are in the man room with me, all on nice soft chair cushions.

The boys have started to wake up a bit. Mao woke, was sick, tried to walk and fell over. I put him back on the cushion and he's asleep again. Shue's just tried to get up and the same thing happened, but he's refusing to rest. He’s staggering around with his tongue hanging out, looking for all the world like a zombie cat.

The boys can eat later, but Sula has to stay on liquids until tomorrow. I'll be feeding them nothing but prime cuts this week. They've been incredibly brave. Probably should have got them done a bit sooner. The younger the better apparently, but Kabibi and Mweru were done at almost a year old. I just really hope it doesn't change their characters too much.

But all safe and home now. Hopefully in a month or two it'll all be forgotten and they won't need to go back to Alphonse until next year when they need their rabies boosters, provided they don't go running in front of cars or eating poisoned mice between now and then.

Poor babies. Why do I never get this upset about people!?

:'(((

Mao

Horrible, horrible day. The vet brought the day forward for the kitten's snip so, this morning, I got them all together and put them in their baskets. Luckily, I found the taxi driver that took me last time when Shue was ill.

We got there - by this time Shue had managed to get out of his basket - and got them into the room. Shue befittingly gave me a smack in the face trying to escape, drew blood :(

There was a Belgian lady just leaving with her kitten. I had to hold the two boys for their injections, then they put them in cages. Shue threw up his dinner from last night. They were just going to let him fall asleep in his own sick! I told them to move him and they hauled him up by the scruff of his neck, so I told them to put their arm under him, all the time getting more upset by what I was seeing. Little Mao was nose-down on the floor of his cage, blowing bubbles of snot. I just couldn't hold it together. The Belgian lady saying "Oh, it's your first time," didn't really help. It's only the sort of thing you get done once.

I got back in the taxi and cried all the way home. The taxi driver thinks I'm mad, but he's used to seeing me in tears. People here don't get upset over animals - it's not an animal loving nation. Hannah's guard found a puppy in the garden once. He beat it to death with a plank of wood and left it in the garbage.

I just feel so utterly guilty. I know it has to be done, but they're so small and so trusting. They'd follow me anywhere and I've done that to them. I'm trying to pull myself together with a hot cup of sweet tea.

I just don't trust the vet at all now, not after seeing that. Jo told me that when Kabibi was ill another vet came to look at him, took his temperature, then wiped the thermometer clean on Kabibi's fur!

I'm so worried about them. Especially Sula, who has to undergo a full hour-long operation. I just can't wait to get them home and look after them. Jo says she might be able to come over later to offer moral support. This is just so awful.

:'o((

Secret Confetti

Wedding Roundabout

Well, Sunday was an absolutely wonderful day. Two friends decided to tie the knot, but wanted a very quiet ceremony. They're planning to do the big cow-giving spiel next year for their families.

There were only four guests present: two Rwandese witnesses and two muzungus - myself and Nix from JAM school. She only found out the day before. Martine was invited but was already promised to another wedding out of town.

It truly was a wonderfully special day. We drove out into the middle of the burbs, to a tiny local authority office, where their friend-of-a-friend had agreed to marry them.

It was sooo sweet and the registrar was so funny. He spoke in English so that Nix and I could understand, because we don't speak French, but some of the stuff... we were streaming with tears by the end. Even the bride, who had to keep a straight face, said she was aching at the sides trying to keep it together at one point. It was funny in the good way, though. References to men as the 'forest chief', her washing him, and enquiring whether they had 'tasted' before marrying (i.e. ever had sex) because of some rules about him being able to disown a baby born so many days after marriage... important in a country without paternity testing ;)

It was quite an experience but, when they held the Rwandan flag, raised their hands, and made the oath - aaaawwww, really sweet. Very privileged to be part of it. My signature is now somewhere in a registry office on the outskirts of Kigali.

We had photos outside the office. I had to lie and tell the registrar that I was married with three kids: two boys and a girl. Well, that's almost true... married to my work, then there's Shue, Mao and Sula. He was asking all the usual questions about when I was getting married, and trying to hold my hand *shudder* Unfortunately, I was so deadpan that he was still asking me about my kids over dinner :op

We went to the Wedding Roundabout in town where we took the traditional wedding pics. Although, not so secret. It's literally a roundabout near the centre of Kigali with all the cars going past. Nice foliage, though. Everyone goes there after weddings for photos.

I meant to take them a bottle of wine but the shop was shut when I left the house. I went to the florist instead and bought a beautiful bouquet of lilies and scented stock. She carried it all day as her bridal arrangement :) Aaaawww. It went lovely with her pale green mushanana.

After the pics, we went on to India Khazana for a slap-up meal of the finest quality, rounded off with chocolate and peanut butter ice-cream at the MTN centre.

Got home after dark, wearing my African suit that Rose made for me. Very smart. First time I felt brave enough to wear it, but felt perfectly natural walking about town. The zip had gone squiffy, so I'd had to sew myself into it! I stopped off and bough cold beer, then slobbed out with a movie at home. My beautiful home which is mine, all mine, once again :)

Totally memorable, wonderful day.

Monday was slightly less wonderful. I realised the extent of my organisation's financial reporting problems. Long story, complications. Basically, our last round of funding ran out in April. The next lot doesn't start until - tenuous - this month some time. That leaves a gap of two months without funding, through which we apparently continued to spend money from two different cost centres: an allocated transport fund and unallocated leftover IT funds, used to continue running the organisation. 

Big sticky mess. I have no desire to get involved. Watch this space. But, although I reckon VSO and RNAD will probably work it out okay, eventually, it means we're left in limbo whilst the financial reports are sorted out - still with no funding to continue the dictionary project. Sooo, I've got very little to do right now except get stressed trying repeatedly to explain to my colleagues why they must stop spending money and wait.

Anyway. I escaped from it all yesterday and went down to Butare to meet up with Antonia, who is leaving soon, but wants me to take up applying for funding for her project next January. So, something else to occupy me whilst we wait to continue.

It was another lovely day. The bus down was painful. Squished into an Atraco. Antonia explained that, actually, Volcano or Horizon are the way to go - much nicer. We had lunch at her house, cooked by her domestic. It was utterly amazing food: soup, followed by rice, tomato sauce, sauteed potatoes and salad, with fruit salad for afters, and chocolate with coffee. I couldn't move!

Then she gave me a tour of Butare Deaf School, which is closed for the holidays, but Eli (a Deaf guy I keep bumping into) was there, and some others, mending an open drain in the entrance hall. It was really nice to finally get a look around the place - very cool. Also met Felix, a very cool Deaf guy who Antonia keeps going on about.

Then we headed back to town and Antonia took the bus with me up to Gitarama. She was meeting another volunteer. We discussed the project plan and her replacement outline en route. After three years it's a lot to leave behind :(

Got home around 7pm. More cold beer and another movie.

Crawling towards the weekend. Rose came over on Monday for computer lessons and to discuss our single parents project. We're calling it by a Kinyarwanda name, which sort of translates as 'giving help when you see someone in need'. Nice name. She's over again tonight for more computer lessons, then tomorrow we're going to talk to the bank about opening an account. She managed to get the constitution written and translated for a mere FRW 150,000!! I couldn't believe it - excellent. Hopefully we can look through it tomorrow and make any changes. The only down side is that the President of the organisation has to be Rwandan, so she has to be Vice Chair because she's Ugandan.

In order to get registered, we have to have seven committee members. Rose is taking Vice Chair. I'm being temporary Treasurer until we have the financial system in place and someone trained to take over. Her Pastor is offering to be President. Not ideal as 1) he's not a single parent and 2) he comes with heavy religious connotations. It might scare off Muslim single parents. However, he is influential, very supportive, and also trustworthy, so the three of us can sign on the account. Then Rose has found three other single mums to make up the numbers. Possibly also D, just to stand in if we need him. He doesn't actually have to do anything, just sign so that we can get constituted. The idea being that we get registered, get the bank account, and then get enough money to hold a big public meeting to set up a network through which we can find replacements for myself, the President, and D. It's very much Rose's organisation. It's just so pants that she can't be President. Perhaps we can call her 'executive' something-or-other, that always sounds good ;)

But it's moving forward pretty fast :)

T'ra Then

Chinese Plum or 'Tree Tomato'

Hmmm. Sitting here listening to Drowning Pool's LTBHTF and wondering whether that's grossly inappropriate given where I'm living ;)

Found Clueless in the VSO library. Never seen it before. Thought I'd hate it but actually a really cute ending. Can't beat a bit of girlie chick-flick mush sometimes.

*

I was originally writing this post to describe Friday afternoon, which was a wonderful day. Sad because two vols were leaving: Antonia, who's been here three years now, and Joanne, who was one year. Antonia’s another signer from North Wales, she really helped to show me the ropes when I arrived. She'll be greatly missed, but hopefully popping back in January if we can get a project together.

So, instead of holding a disability meeting, we headed to SoleLuna and had the most amazing Italian melange in the world ever! Utterly fantastic food, and a lovely chat between us girlies in Disability: Martine, Karen, Antonia, Joanne, Amanda, Emilienne and myself. Really excellent day.

Joanne's just got back from Tanzania. She climbed Kilimanjaro with her partner, Morley, and Irish Joe. It was utterly fascinating listening to them talking about it.

Going to postpone my presentation until next time, but gave Karen a one-on-one run through as she was after ideas for a couple of things she's doing.

After that, I headed to Stella with Cathryn and American Alicia who were here for the Kivu Writers Group, an organisation for school children to help develop their skills in poetry, prose and storytelling. Really interesting project, but doesn't have a volunteer of its own, so it's helped along by a couple of vols as extracurricular. They're also suffering a funding crisis. I said I might stop by today and take a look. I'm going to try and give them a hand with funding in the meantime, but a bit wary of taking on too much.

*

Anyway, that aside, it's almost 7pm here and D's walked in. He came back the night I thought he went to Uganda, but then disappeared last night. I had no idea what was going on, but at that point I wasn't too bothered - hit despondency.

Anyway, he's come back tonight and amazingly taken the initiative to move out! Literally, front room is full of his stuff and he's waiting for a mate to pick him up, even gave the keys back. There's a couple of things he's lent to friends that he still needs to return but, right now, I'm feeling very relieved indeed.

Didn’t make it to Kivu Writers this time, but will next time for sure. Today I decided to go swimming and spent ages in the pool. It was really good - bit overcast, so not too hot. There were very few people in the pool and I walked to Nyarutarama and back on my own - no hassle. It was dead relaxing, and I saw some beautiful birds - one that looked like a robin, with bright red cheeks and an electric blue breast.

Bought a ton of fruit on the way back: Chinese plums, mango, Chinese lanterns, oranges and even a watermelon. Feasted on it when I got in. Think my body's gone into shock. I'm on a bit of an exercise fest at the moment - think I've spent too long indoors staring at spreadsheets. I just want to go and work off some energy.

Can't believe I'm getting my house back tonight! I keep wondering if I should feel really bad about it? He hasn't got a house yet, but I feel I did more than enough: free accommodation for four months, help with CV, use of the computer and internet, cash, help with driving lessons... really, I think that was enough. He could have really used that time to get a job and get himself set up, but I ended up feeling like his mum. Sooo, live and learn.

David from Salsa called me up asking to take me out for the day, but the buzz says no. Great dance partner, dubious 'anything other' apparently.

I think I'm through with the whole lurv thayng right now. I've got plenty else on my plate and it's all far too complicated here. Ain't worth the hassle. Time to have some quality me time.

Got an exciting day tomorrow, but not allowed to say anything about it ;)

Salsalicious

Had a great time at salsa last night. Regis didn't come, but Jo & Pierre were there, and a very lovely Rwandese guy called David who works for another NGO in town. Really lovely guy, and great dance partner. It took a while to get people up and dancing, but I received loads of compliments. People were very surprised it was only my second time there. Never thought of myself as much of a dancer - must have been the Mutzig ;) It was a lot of fun, and fantastic exercise. Hopefully going to make it part of the weekly routine if David'll partner.

Also met a lady who's out training in marketing and setting up a tourism company. Really nice lady. She's willing to do the Butare/Nyanza tour for far less, so going to book with her and compare the two.

Also invited to a secret wedding on Sunday. Not allowed to say anything about it, but very exciting indeed. An elopement :op

Off to La Planet in an hour for the Disability Working Group lunch, then giving my presentation. There's only likely to be three of us there lol Nice, relaxed day. Yay for Fridays.

Also heard from Augustin that the American Embassy have invited a delegation of the Deaf to go and talk over the application. They are still reassuring themselves that RNAD can manage the funds and that it's not just a good application written by a volunteer... fingers crossed. Last hurdle.