Nyagatare & Gahini

Well, finally back from the far North after spending the weekend on a bus!

I had been quite ill at the end of last week - another respitory problem. Everyone's saying 'it's the dust' as we're in the dry season and you could just about chew the air - very gritty. I laughed at first, but I think they're actually dead right. Really wasn't sure I'd make it, but I battled on regardless.

Went to a Global Education conference on Thursday and got my phone stolen again. It was my own fault - Rose came representing our organisation. I'm trying to introduce her to the world of NGOs gently, with a few speeches and a free meal. We left after lunch and popped to the bank to discuss opening an account. I left my phone in my coat pocket, which I gave to a friend, but she was speaking next and left it on a chair. It was surrounded by other volunteers, but when I got back the phone had gone. It was really irritating because of all the plans to be made for the weekend. Instead of hopping a moto to my next meeting, I dashed to the MTN Centre and filled out all the forms to get my old number transferred. It cost me £15 for another (completely crap) phone, but at least any calls and messages were diverted to it. I just don't have anyone else's number yet.

Bit exasperating. Went home, changed, and dragged myself to salsa. Not because I really wanted to dance - felt far too ill - but I thought ogling JM for a while would make everything feel a bit better. It did.

He also had a stinking cold. We must have been standing next to someone at the concert - everyone seems to be coming down with it. When I asked why he'd made the effort he said 'because I told you I'd be here'. Yes, swoooon.

We stuck around for a while, met a nice lady 12 hours off the plane from London. She's working at the same place as Jo and Judy for six months. Jo was really late and, by the time she arrived, the dance floor was uncharacteristically heaving with very professional-looking salsa dancers.

JM and I just sat watching and chatting to people. We shared an omelette special. We both decided to head home early as we were feeling so yuck, but there was some hand touching involved and a few high-voltage sparks flying. He walked me to the motos and tried to move a little fast, but I said 'bahoro, bahoro' (slowly, slowly) and called him 'nshuti' (friend) - 'for now'. The spark is certainly there, but I really don't know him yet and, as he's new to his job, neither does anyone else.

There's a big Leavers' Forum on Monday for practically everyone. Most people are heading home soon. This mass exodus, including most of my close friends, has also added to the caution. Before, I had a tight-knit network of people looking out for each other. I'm going to be a bit more on my own after this, so it's important I look after myself.

I gave him a grilling - made sure 'single' didn't mean 'single, married with three kids'. I believe him, but wouldn't rule out a girlfriend. He is yummy, educated, and most guys of his age here have someone around somewhere. I don't know, though. I reckon, if that were the case, Pierre would have known at work by now, so I say the lights are green.

Anyway. Friday morning I still felt pants, so I spent the morning packing instead of going to work. Met up with Berta and Martine at café Bourbon at 1pm. We ate, then headed to Atraco where we had a 'could have predicted it' moment. Berta had been into town in the morning to book the tickets. She told them 'two o'clock'. They had written down 'ten o'clock' *sigh* This meant that we had to wait an extra hour for seats on another bus, and we had to pay again. The woman behind the desk was completely obnoxious in the 'you're just a customer, ergo you're the shit on my shoes' trend of Rwandese customer services.

It wasn't too bad though, we just grabbed a drink in the Atraco café and watched the world news. Something about another earthquake in China and a nuclear space programme?

It took about three hours to get up to Nyagatare. It was the first time I'd been, so quite exciting, but cramped horrid Atraco buses are painful. We managed to find Hannah's house, and the boys (Chris, Samira's friend Charlie, and Joe) were already busy setting the porch on fire with a makeshift BBQ.

The food was outstanding and the booze flowed freely. It was a party for Joe's 26th birthday, and also George, who lives with Chris. Lovely relaxed night. The guesthouse was amazing - only £3 each. I shared with Martine. Went to bed quite early (about 11:30) due to the looong journey. I was also saving it up for Gahini the next night.

Next morning I had some wonderful fruit salad. Berta, Martine and I went for a wander around Nyagy. Not a whole lot there, but much warmer than down south. Slightly flatter and looks more arid, like Uganda. Liked the feel of it. Relaxed enough, on the whole.

A makeshift badminton and volleyball court was erected in Hannah's garden but Martine, Berta, Joe and I headed for the bus to Gahini a little early. We wanted to chill out before the festivities. Paula was already at home in Gahini. We cooled off at her house after tackling the hill from the lake. I was booked into the cheap guesthouse slightly further down the hill (£5 between 3!), sharing with other vols (Alicia and Cathryn). I had a bucket bath as there's no running water at this place. It's basic but clean. I washed my hair for the second time that day (dust from travelling turns the suds red!) and got dolled up before heading back to the house.

Loads of people came to Gahini. We had a substantial house party before heading down the hill to Jambo Beach. Chris and I led the way, giggling like school kids. He's got a very daft sense of humour, gotta love him. So glad he's sticking around as a long-termer. Think we scared the locals though: two muzungu lunatics in stitches, racing down the hill in search of the bar :op

The food took a long time to come, but we all had a good dance whilst we waited and sank a few Mutzigs. Think we consumed half the tilapia in the country! I headed back up the hill with Judy, Maxime and Shelina around 2am. Passed out, completely exhausted. Unusually, no mosquito nets in that room but also, thankfully, no mosquitos.

Woke up silly early, as did Alicia and Catheryn, so we decided to have a wash and head down for breakfast at Seeds of Peace by the lakeside. It was the longest I think I've ever waited for food in my life. Cathryn and I just kept setting each other off in hysterical giggling fits. I haven't laughed so much since I've been here, I don't think. We eventually got fed and caught a bus to Kigali, changing at Ramagana. When we got back, Alicia, Judy, Maxime, Cathryn and I all went to Bourbon for food.

I hopped a moto home after that, stuffed, shattered, dusty, but satisfied. It was a cool weekend. Really good to get out of Kigali for a while. Tinged with sadness at the massive changes coming, the people leaving and those already missing - but good.

Jo fed my cats in my absence. She thankfully rescued me with my spare key when I got home, as someone lifted my keys in Gahini. I had the presence of mind to leave my office keys at home - phew. I'm a bit annoyed as there were a couple of keyrings on them that I'd had for years and years :(

Oh well, seems to be my time for losing things. I'm not terribly sentimental or begrudging about it - which helps me stay healthy - but things could get a little expensive if it continues. Shall have to try and be more careful.

The cats had trashed my house since I'd been away - toilet paper everywhere! Just going to pop to Ndoli's to get them some food and myself a new mug. Since I've been away, the garden tap has filled almost three-quarters of a jerry can. Not enough to do the washing. I invested it in the water filter for drinking. So, I thought I'd just buy a new mug and have a cuppa. I'll have to sort the water situation out soon. 

Shelina said the rumour on the ditch outside my gate (which has since been filled in) is that it's to do with internet. Apparently, they're laying the cables all over the place. I dare not hope, but perhaps it's broadband!?

Going to have a relaxed week, hopefully. Try and kick this cold/cough again. Got the running costs for Kivu Writers through. Chris is also getting involved with it, so it could be a laugh. Going to see if I can come up with any cunning funding strategies.

For now I'm going to re-watch a DVD that Dad sent out: Nelson Mandela's 90th Birthday Celebration bash in Hyde Park. Some great music on that. Makes me feel a twinge for home, watching it lol The adverts between sections are like something from another planet. Some alien concept to do with ideas completely meaningless here... dieting! Mortgages?...eh? And the persistent over-analysis of why it's important for such-and-such a singer to be there, and why it's important to celebrate Mandela - jeeez, just get on with it! We Brits don't half like to over-analyse everything again and again. It's interesting. I never really noticed it before. Loved the rendition of Give Me Hope Johana - my favourite I think, of the show.